ARGENTINA -Post Card from Down South -Buenos Aires Grand Opera House

If you didn’t know it, I will tell you that the Teatro Colon (Columbus) is one of South America’s most impressive theater venues and considered to be one of six great opera houses of the world.

Its forthcoming centennial celebrates the cultured art of first class opera, symphony and ballet.

The Teatro Colon was originally under construction for 20 years due to high turnover of project architects and government administrations, financial setbacks and red tape. It finally opened its doors in 1908. In 2008, the opera house commemorated its one hundred years of excellence in the performing arts. 

 Italian immigrants were highly influential on the local opera scene and the construction of a performing arts center was forthcoming for many years before the turn of the 20^th century.

As one of the most elaborate buildings in the Americas, Teatro Colon’s structure is mostly of  Italian Renaissance design; its Grand Hall, combines many styles and influences including Greek columns of Carrara marble to show off a collection of very detailed classical European composer busts.

The pride of Buenos Aires, the Colon, has hosted the most celebrated opera and ballet icons of the 20th Century. Caruso, Maria Callas, Krauss, Beverly Sills, Jose Carreras, Placido Domingo, Pavarotti and Renee Fleming stand out among the renowned vocalists. Fonteyn, Pavlova, Nijinski, Nureiev, Barishnikov and Bocca are among the ballet performers while symphony masters as illustrious as Stravinsky, Toscanini, Von Karajan and Zubin Metha have measurably graced the stage over the decades. 

Music holds an exceptional position at the Colon, a fact that highlights the city’s purely European feel in its devotion to the musical arts. Those who love classical music can select from an array of concerts performed at different stages. Both, the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra and the National Symphony are housed at the Colon and offer frequent complimentary concerts.

A technological and acoustic four-year renovation completed in 2010 is said to have come close to 25 million US dollars.

Offering seating capacity for over 2400 spectators, the Teatro Colon consists of its own ‘in-house’ ballet and theater companies, an orchestra, workshops, music and dance schools as well as a museum.

A truthfully colossal building, the Colon boasts ample dimensions, a luxurious interior so acoustically perfect that an un-amplified voice can be heard singing pianissimo, even in the remotest balconies.

Tours of the theater lead visitors through the Grand Hall, the lavishly gilded and mirrored Golden Room, and the auditorium, which highlights the vibrant frescoes done by Argentinian artist Raul Soldi.

As part of the tour, visitors also proceed through workshops and practice rooms in the four-level basement where they may witness 11,000-sq-ft stage backdrops, as they are being hand-painted by expert artisans whenever a new opera or ballet is in the works. Copious items of period clothing, headgear and footwear used in past performances, are on view through glass enclosures.

The performance hall itself holds an enormous Baccarat crystal chandelier, and thick, weighty velvet curtains. I’ve been told that if not attending a performance, the grandness of the Colon cannot be appreciated fully. A tour of the premises, nevertheless, affords better insight of the size and scope of this highest center for the performing arts.

I am in awe of the Grand Entrance Salon with the spacious twin marbled staircases, the multi paned stained glass doors and windows and the velvety armchairs of the performance hall. There are layers of balconies and private viewing boxes just below the gleaming majestic chandelier – center stage in the vast loftiness of the upper ceilings. 

I love theater, music, opera and ballet; I do hope to be able to attend a performance once the winter season begins -- a most inspiring experience, no doubt.

It’s autumn in Buenos Aires…this year’s performing arts season begins May 25.

esw@march2012

ARGENTINA Post Cards from Down South -Buenos Aires and Tango

Buenos Aires, a glamorous seaport and lively modern metropolis extends along the Rio de la Plata (River of Silver or River Plate), the estuary formed by the convergence of the Uruguay and Paraná Rivers on the southeastern cone of the South American coastline.

It is June and the weather is cold. Wandering the avenues of this wintry Southern hemisphere city, reveals a rich cultural identity steeped in continental tradition. Populated in the late 18^th century by working class Spaniards, Italians, Irish shepherds lured by the vastness of the pampas, and a mix of Eastern and Western Europeans on their way to making a new life in a land of opportunity, Buenos Aires became known as the Queen of the River Plate.

What I love about B.A., as the locals call it, is its intellectual beat. Over one hundred cinemas and live stages near and around the business district, but also throughout suburban communities grace the city, all presenting current local and international films, theater performances from previous and contemporary playwrights, opera, plus concerts in parks and auditoriums. 

And food (!), I can’t say enough about the wealth of culinary experiences as all types of global cuisines await the city’s ravenous palates within countless restaurants, tea houses, art galleries, and shopping malls.  People live intensely here, apparently preoccupied with their jobs, schoolwork, their cell phones or whatever motivates them. Women seem to smoke a great deal out of doors, no smoking is allowed indoors. Sidewalk cafes, in spite of the cold weather, teem with students, shoppers and tourists sipping cappuccinos and strong demitasse coffees.

We are staying in something called an aparthotel, which combines the freedom of a well-equipped apartment with the integrated convenience of weekly maid service and daily breakfast. It is easily accessible by the subway line D, bus and taxi service and not far from Recoleta, an uptown district of architectural and historic interest. Of note is the Recoleta Cemetery where Evita Peron, once first lady of Argentina, is buried.

In my recent walks, I have discovered local artists’ shops, bookstores and colorful row houses in the Italian district of La Boca, a little ‘cultural pocket’ where early immigrant settlers established Buenos Aires’ first seaport. 

Caminito St. (little road) is said to have been the site of the first accordion notes of the Argentine tango.  Although it is crowded with pedestrians in the early hours of the afternoon, I got the feeling that at night, safety may be an issue in this part of town, not violent crime, but possibly pick- pocketing -- a fact much in accordance with the character of any large metropolitan area.

Immediately captivated by the first chords of a tango, I sit down on a nearby bench and listen to the solitary accordionist on Caminito St., squeezing  and expanding  the large instrument on his lap with both hands,  a most melodious sound filling the frosty air.

I have read somewhere that the Tango was born in Buenos Aires around the later part of the nineteenth century; however, this happened only along the fringes of the city, by the river, in houses of disrepute, gambling casinos, and taverns -- places frequented by lonely sailors and manual workers seeking distraction and romance. 

The close contact of the dance steps -- close hold, cheek to cheek, chest to chest, interlacing fingers and legs -- made the tango socially unacceptable to respectable families and women of good reputation. The beginning, the Tango began to be practiced by men and women of questionable repute because women from suitable upbringing were unavailable to do so.

Gradually, the new dance spread mostly among the Italian and Polish immigrants already acquainted with the close embrace of the waltz and the polka. It took even longer for the well-to-do families to allow their daughters, sisters and girlfriends to incur in a few respectable dance steps in the tearooms and dance halls of the prospering southern city. 

Between the late 1880’s and early 1930’s, Argentina’s character changed, growing rapidly along its increasing population, multi level buildings, wide boulevards and attractive parks. A rich and educated portion of young students customarily accustomed to long stays in Paris and London, apparently introduced the first sounds of the Argentinian tango at European music halls.

The harmony became a favorite of the nightclub scene throughout Europe and later on across the Atlantic.

By the 1920’s, the Tango took New York City by storm, Hollywood by surprise, and on its return to Argentina it was received as a privileged international child, at last considered respectable on the home front.

Seemingly an Afro-Portuguese or creole word in origin, tango came to be known in Argentina, and probably other Spanish colonies, at the onset of the slavery trade, efficiently carried out by the Spaniard and Portuguese settlers in the 17^th century.  Some say tango was the word used for the tight confined spaces slaves had to endure on their ocean crossings to the new world. Others say tango refers to an African drumbeat. Whatever its true origin, the tango has crossed boundaries and today is one of the world’s most favorite dances. 

I have been told that the USA has vibrant tango communities, large and small, where week long festivals are held yearly. Many students of tango around the world dream of sometime dancing it in Buenos Aires.

The ultimate dancing spots for tango lovers in Buenos Aires are the beautifully preserved nineteenth century dance hall called Confiteria Ideal, and the Plaza Dorrego weekend flea and antique market where very talented couples tango in the open air on Spring and Summer days.

On my way back to my aparthotel, I make my way through Plaza Dorrego, a hushed shaded plaza with deciduous trees where the people of Buenos Aires, called porteños, bring their baby carriages and their newspapers. It seems to be one of the many lovely squares that adorn the city, on the plaza itself side-walk cafes serve cortados (lattes) and deliciously light and crisp croissants called medialunas (half-moons).

An assortment of antique shops and art galleries regale the eye with impressive timeless objects and works of art. I am told the Sunday Flea Market is a must and that the remarkable buildings surrounding Plaza Dorrego, have been restored to their original late 1800’s European architectural splendor by the Restoration Committee of the Museo de la Ciudad (Museum of the city).

  

At almost 5 PM, dusk approaches and crossing the Avenida Independencia, the roar of the traffic brings to mind my steaming Bangkok days, except that the weather here is cold, and the city appears to be encased in a haze of frosty polar air that to me feels just like forthcoming snow. I am so glad for my cozy gloves, hat and scarf!

ESW@/june2010

BRAZIL Post Cards from Down South -Incredible Sao Paulo

If I have not mentioned it before, we have traveled the world with our jobs, and I, my children now grown, am finding myself discovering lots of new things which have fueled my long-time passion for writing and narrative about life and adventure in the places we reside and visit. Our cookie-cutter lives left behind, we have managed to follow our dreams visiting and working in lands we never even considered before.

After Uruguay and Argentina the past two years, I am dedicating my free time to experience Sao Paulo, Brazil.

The largest nation in South America, Brazil borders almost every country in this continent, with the exception of Chile and Ecuador.

After independence from Portugal in the first part of the 19^th century, Brazil kept the language, and constitution of its motherland.

Africans -from Portugal’s vast slave trade- provided most of the work force in the colonial economy, sugar and coffee, being undoubtedly, the chief Brazilian commodities in the early 1800’s.

When gold and diamond deposits were unearthed in the state of Minas Gerais, mining slaves -- who mined in deplorable conditions -- activated one the largest slave revolts in history, an event that eventually, led to the abolition of the African slave operation albeit slavery persisted until the late 1800’s. Once it finally ended, five million ex-slaves remained in this new land alongside a large population of locally born Portuguese.

The mega city of Sao Paulo, in Brazil’s southeast, is home to about 11 million happy souls. Springing up on a plateau in the Brazilian Highlands, not far from the Atlantic Ocean, it is the third largest city in the world. Like most extensive metropolitan areas, Sao Paulo can be astounding. While at first glance the city seems impersonal, it is evident to me, that this urban jungle, has a personality all its own. Sao Paulo is a city of contrasts. It fluctuates from exceedingly wealthy central and suburban areas, to extreme poverty in satellite districts crowded with slums, called favelas.

Our area of town is relatively safe and an affluent district providing us with excellent transportation and a subway stop only three blocks uphill from our flat.

Although canyons of up-thrusting buildings tower above the commercial sections, our sector is composed of mostly nice family homes, and luscious semi-tropical gardens and parks. Ubiquitous here are the giant eucalyptus trees, multi hued bougainvilleas and the sumptuous gardenia bushes that I love.

Sao Paulo’s residents make up an colorful ethnic quilt pieced together from distinctively large migrations of European, African, Asian, and Arab extractions. After years of intense immigration, Brazil has the second largest number of immigrants after the United States.

As I learn more about Sao Paulo and how it works for an insider, I realize this is a city that lives 24/7. From its symphony orchestras to its first class ballet; opera; drama and musical theater; museums and fairs to restaurants, coffee shops (!) and bars of all kinds. Sao Paulo keeps a pace that is faster than any other place I've been to -with the exception of Thailand- there's a strong, clear energy here and people seem to be happy, taking the time to enjoy a morning or afternoon coffee with friends; continental culture, as in Uruguay and Argentina, residing here as well. 

I've noticed that Paulistas (people from SP) are always on the move. Always busy. Even taking private lessons (music, languages, finances) on weekends and/or after work. They are also friendly and will step up to help if needed. What I love mostly, is the eclectic feel of a diverse population living in the present.

If one already speaks Spanish, Portuguese becomes much easier to learn. People have been very helpful when I've needed to ask for something such as a subway ticket or a chip for my cell phone. Sign language also works well.

So far I've walked a whole lot in this city, especially not too far from our apartment, which is centrally located, of note is the very long and wide Paulista Avenue which is open to pedestrians on Sundays with no disturbance from hectic traffic. People are free to walk, ride their bikes while others jog along. The avenue shines with performers of all kinds -from jugglers and fire-swallowing folks to classical violinists and small samba troups- transforming the place into a dazzling and vibrant whole day trek. Of course cafes, restaurants and colorful street vendors abound for the classic cafezinho, pao de queijo and more. I've just been told Avenida Paulista developed over many years, built in the beginning as a thoroughfare to transport the coffee barons who made their homes in the area; those enduring mansions are still beautifully and respectably standing. The MASP (Museum of Art of Sao Paulo) also borders Paulista Avenue with a display of sculptures in its indoor courtyard, seen from the street.

The Old Downtown is also a fun place to walk in as many of the buildings are colonial.  The very large Andrade Library is there welcoming locals and tourists alike; there's a monastery and Church, the enormous Se Cathedral, the University of Sao Paulo's Law School (the oldest faculty in Brazil), and the Stock Exchange, the 4th largest market cap in all of the Americas and 13th largest in the world. 

Street art is celebrated if it's in good taste -it's not gang related art- but an expression of artists trying to beautify the city in different ways and involving young artists from shelters and poorer areas in a quest to empower them with the tools of a future profession. 

Sao Paulo is fascinating. Next week I'll write a bit about the street feiras (Farmers' markets) that spring up in different parts of this enormous town.

BRAZIL Post Cards from Down South: Downtown Sao Paulo and the Central Market

Strolling the ‘old downtown’ (Centro Velho) area of Sao Paulo, I note a combination of history, great architecture and traditional businesses (the Sao Paulo Stock Exchange is located here). The downtown area had been overlooked and in disrepair for a long time; recent renovations however, have attempted to bring color and a continental feeling to this district.

Restored old buildings, attractive coffee bars, art exhibits and improved shopping centers have found new life amid high-rise buildings. I spot a variety of people ambling the streets: tourists, young people on their cell phones, business executives, students, and a mixture of transient, vagabond types.

The impressive stained-glassed Metropolitan Cathedral that dominates this area, the Catedral da Sé, was completed after 40 years of intermittent construction. Fashioned along strict gothic lines, its large underground catacombs contain bishops’ graves and a selection of marble sculptures.  Inside, an Italian organ with more than 12 thou­sand pipes and five keyboards delights visitors and parishioners during mass services.  

A few blocks away, the architectural complex of the Patio do Colegio or College Square, marks the site of Sao Paulo’s origins in the mid 1500’s, the nucleus from which the town grew exponentially.  On the premises, the reconstructed colonial school and chapel that formed the first Jesuit mission in Sao Paulo, endows the historic square together with the Anchieta Museum, which displays original sculptures plus a large facsimile of the 16th Century Sao Paulo Township. 

A strong, aromatic cafezinho and a pao de queijo (Brazilian espresso coffee and a flaky cheese bread ball) at the Café do Pateo were worth my unplanned half hour stop.

Nearby, the Edificio Italia’s 47th floor rooftop, at a height of approximately 500ft, offers magnificent views of even higher skyscrapers. The building houses the symbol of Sao Paulo’s economic power, the Federal Bank of Brazil.

Going around the city on the subway system (Metro), which is the most secure, cleanest way to get around Sao Paulo, I have seen art exhibits in many of the stations; some seem permanent, but I think others change weekly. Some of them are within the stations’ fare metered gates, while others are outside and may be appreciated by all. Either way, it is interesting to observe different art forms underground.

My next stop downtown is the nearby, three acre, Mercado Municipal.  A chic, neo-classic structure sheltering over 300 stalls of daily fresh produce, prepared foods, dry goods and restaurants. The market is very clean and displays 40 feet-high domed and columned ceilings along with stained glass windows displaying  agricultural and urban scenes.

With restoration nearly finished, the market is the perfect place to sample local foods such as cold-cuts hero sandwiches and cod and prawn pies in puff pastry. This is a fun place to browse, taste, smell and touch.  Pizza is also much loved here from single slices to whole, 20 inch pies. 

The Mercado provides a visual and gastronomical experience to experience Brazil at its best. One can sample unique fruits from other Brazilian states as well as enjoy great sandwiches of cuts such as Mortadela and different kinds of salamis -which I used to love in Italy.

I prefer the cheese, delicatessen and wine areas, but the spice alley is also superb. I am happy I visited on a Wednesday as weekends can be quite congested.

The market‘s mezzanine floor is reserved for choice eateries and from its balcony, the crowds below are fun to watch.

I must remember to bring my husband along, next time.

BRAZIL Post Cards from Down South: -Sao Paulo's Street Markets

This morning as I've done every week since we arrived, I walked two blocks to our neighborhood Feira Livre, or street market which assembles on Thursdays between the hours of 6AM and 2PM.

Visiting this market always cheers me up, I thrive on the many colors, textures, shapes and the abundant array of produce, fruit, fresh fish, cheeses, local honey, artisan breads, flowers of all types, smells and colors –you name it- plus innumerable other products. I know that in the future, I will be able to rely on my memories of colorful markets such as this one, from all my years lived abroad.

This feira reminds me of those in Southern France, even the souqs of the Middle East or Asia, where I often felt the urge to stroll and live the clamor and confusion of colors, smells, and people going to and fro.

Aubergines, peppers and locally-made farm sausages tempt me from near and far, the ambiance already etched in my mind -- sugar cane drinks and pasteis vendors (savory fried or baked meat or chicken turnovers), violin and guitar players, spices, and herbs; a delight for my eyes; a visual 'great escape' for the senses.

Walking around, buying a few things, and always enjoying pastéis de carne (beef turnovers), I make my way back home, my senses filled with color and wonder at the gaiety of this marketplace.  Brazil -as Thailand- is one of the countries with the most variety of tropical fruits. The display of pineapples, mangosteen, mangos, noni, acai berries, lychees, guavas, quince, pitanga, graviola, cashew, maracuja, sapoti, acerola, passion fruit, papayas -just to name a few- is outstanding!  All of these grow abundantly in this land as do many varieties of apples, oranges and tiny sweet bananas.

I am generally most impressed with spices and herbs -as I lived in the Middle East- but also with the array of refrigerated stands with excellent fish of all kinds from the nearby south Atlantic as well as the Amazon River to the north.

In 'my' street market as in most, one can also find varieties of olives, and pickled vegetables, different types of nut butters, sun-dried tomatoes, excellent homemade sauces, jams and preserves of all kinds. Some items are imported, but most are made and grown right here in Brazil.

As I mentioned flowers before, I must say that the variations are far-fetched and of innumerable colors and hues; delightfully fragrant and so very reasonably priced (!)  that I've been buying and replacing bouquets weekly in our apartment.

I briefly mentioned the artisan breads at the feiras but in Brazil as in Spain, Portugal or France, freshly baked bread is a must. Bakeries have two main output cycles per day: early morning and early evening -when most people descend to the wonderfully smelling bake shops to wait in line and be the first getting breads and rolls steaming out of the oven .There are several ‘padarias’ (bakeries) near our place offering yummy rolls, baguettes, and round and square peasant type breads. We've tried them all and love them all. I'm glad we only drive on weekends when we go to the beaches as walking long distances on week days makes up for the extra calories consuming bread!