Thursday, May 20, 2010

BRAZIL Post Cards from Down South: -Sao Paulo's Street Markets



This morning as I've done every week since we arrived, I walked two blocks to our neighborhood Feira Livre, or street market which assembles on Thursdays between the hours of 6AM and 2PM.


Visiting this market always cheers me up, I thrive on the many colors, textures, shapes and the abundant array of produce, fruit, fresh fish, cheeses, local honey, artisan breads, flowers of all types, smells and colors –you name it- plus innumerable other products. I know that in the future, I will be able to rely on my memories of colorful markets such as this one, from all my years lived abroad.
This feira reminds me of those in Southern France, even the souqs of the Middle East or Asia, where I often felt the urge to stroll and live the clamor and confusion of colors, smells, and people going to and fro.

Aubergines, peppers and locally-made farm sausages tempt me from near and far, the ambiance already etched in my mind -- sugar cane drinks and pasteis vendors (savory fried or baked meat or chicken turnovers), violin and guitar players, spices, and herbs; a delight for my eyes; a visual 'great escape' for the senses.
Walking around, buying a few things, and always enjoying pastéis de carne (beef turnovers), I make my way back home, my senses filled with color and wonder at the gaiety of this marketplace.  Brazil -as Thailand- is one of the countries with the most variety of tropical fruits. The display of pineapples, mangosteen, mangos, noni, acai berries, lychees, guavas, quince, pitanga, graviola, cashew, maracuja, sapoti, acerola, passion fruit, papayas -just to name a few- is outstanding!  All of these grow abundantly in this land as do many varieties of apples, oranges and tiny sweet bananas.
I am generally most impressed with spices and herbs -as I lived in the Middle East- but also with the array of refrigerated stands with excellent fish of all kinds from the nearby south Atlantic as well as the Amazon River to the north.
In 'my' street market as in most, one can also find varieties of olives, and pickled vegetables, different types of nut butters, sun-dried tomatoes, excellent homemade sauces, jams and preserves of all kinds. Some items are imported, but most are made and grown right here in Brazil.
As I mentioned flowers before, I must say that the variations are far-fetched and of innumerable colors and hues; delightfully fragrant and so very reasonably priced (!)  that I've been buying and replacing bouquets weekly in our apartment.
I briefly mentioned the artisan breads at the feiras but in Brazil as in Spain, Portugal or France, freshly baked bread is a must. Bakeries have two main output cycles per day: early morning and early evening -when most people descend to the wonderfully smelling bake shops to wait in line and be the first getting breads and rolls steaming out of the oven .There are several ‘padarias’ (bakeries) near our place offering yummy rolls, baguettes, and round and square peasant type breads. We've tried them all and love them all. I'm glad we only drive on weekends when we go to the beaches as walking long distances on week days makes up for the extra calories consuming bread!