BAHRAIN STORIES -Mezze

Traditional Bahraini hospitality comes to life through the vibrant flavors of its cooking. The Middle Eastern diet -- similarly to the Mediterranean -- is healthy because it includes fresh fruits, vegetables and plenty of fish and lean cuts of chicken and lamb.

The ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and Egypt embraced an assortment of cultural traditions which generated some of the world’s most important religious doctrines: Judaism, Christianity, and later on Islam.  At their inception, a blend of different beliefs, customs and food preferences emerged.

The landmass of Peninsular Arabia includes vast areas of arid, sandy and unforgiving climate, and the Bedu people -- or desert dwellers – have endured the barren regions while learning to survive in extremely desolate conditions. Cooking ‘on the road’ became a way of life, as whole settlements moved seasonably roving the desert in search of water and food for their animals. A great deal of traditional Middle Eastern cooking originated in the desert tents of the nomadic Bedouin tribes. Only transportable foods such as rice, dates and wheat could be easily stored in camel saddlebags and used throughout a season.

Later on with the Muslim conquests, the Bedouin domain -- originally including only geographical Arabia -- expanded.  With Syria and Egypt annexed to Islam, the Bedu of those territories journeyed in caravans throughout the Middle Eastern lands discovering new spices and vegetables which were promptly added to their existing culinary endeavors.

Adapting exceptionally well to harsh desert conditions, Bedu cooking was influenced by whatever they were able to butcher or trade as they moved from camp to camp. Salting and drying meats was a common task Bedu women had to perform, while camel, goat and horse dairy products were, by and large, their sustenance staples. As inter-territorial innovations surfaced, a broader, more ‘international cuisine’ emerged.

When tribal Arabians crossed over to the Bahraini Islands -- just 15 miles east off the Arabian mainland -- they brought their Bedouin customs, their camels, their horses and their time-tested recipes with them.

Not many local cookbooks exist in Bahrain today as oral recipes have been generally handed down from generation to generation throughout time. The different ways of preparing a common dish distinguish it from family to family or from village to village, extending back to the family’s original tribal ancestors. 

 One of my favorites is mezze, welcoming little dishes of scrumptious appetizers presented to company at parties but also served at restaurants.  

By combining several mezze together, it is possible to come up with a light and satisfying meal.  It is part of the Middle Eastern experience to observe people as they enjoy an extended mezze assortment.  Often accompanied by drinks, these appetizers pave the way to a meal, or may appear at an afternoon coffee event or a mid morning women’s social tea.

A Bahraini meal will usually start with mezze, a ritual which could amount to a

 stylish feast of a few dozen tasty treats, or a simple platter laden with olives, boiled eggs, pickles, hummus and pita bread. The popularly known baba ghanoosh, hummus and tabbouleh salad are loved here just as much as they are in the USA. However, there are various additional types of mezze that may go unrecognized outside the Middle East. 

Some of my choices include small kebabs made of chicken or lamb; falafel - spicy balls made with chickpea flour, deliciously wrapped with crunchy salads in warm pita bread as a sandwich, with added garlic yogurt or tahini sauce (a blend of lemon juice, sesame and olive oils); Kalaj – a feta cheese puffed pastry that’s oven baked; foul medammas - boiled broad beans with lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. Sambousak, a pastry filled with ground lamb and pine kernels or haloumi cheese. 

The spices and components used in the preparation of most mezze acknowledge the traditional ancient produce and ingredients of old Mesopotamia, the Arabian Peninsula and the Mediterranean sea; items such as eggplants, grape leaves, figs, chick peas, cracked wheat, garlic, goat cheeses, spinach, tomatoes and olives are favorites; medlars and pomegranates are also widely used.
The word mezze may be derived from the Persian ‘maza’ which means ‘savor, relish’ or from the term ‘mazmiz’, Arabic for snacking.The tradition of mezze extends from Turkey to Greece, through the Balkan countries, Egypt and all of the Middle East to Israel. The famous Spanish tapa appetizers -- no doubt -- place their origin in Middle Eastern mezze.  A basic mezze spread may include a platter of feta cheese or yogurt cheese, three or four types of olives, some dips and salads with pomegranate seeds, and a basket of warm pita bread; for beverages mint water or juices such as freshly squeezed orange, apple, carrot or pomegranate, all delicious and readily available almost anywhere in Bahrain. 

Zesty orange blossom water and cardamom spice are always standing by to ‘soften’ strong Arabic coffee when that’s the beverage of choice.                                                                     I hear that the 'mezze' tradition of the Middle East and the Eastern Mediterranean has gained attention in fashionable culinary circles throughout the world. Mezze are mostly enjoyed over several hours of drinking and chatting, preferably in a beautiful outdoor setting. Winter weather in Bahrain is nearly ideal so dining under the stars in patios and inner courtyards is a habitual obsession.                  

Exploring Bahraini culture through its cuisine is -- without a doubt -- one of the most pleasurable aspects of living in the area.

The refinement of Arab hospitality has attained excellence in Bahrain, where for time immemorial its roads have always been open to cultural diversity.  Early prosperity arrived from all corners linking the islands to Bedouin Arabian caravans and sailing pirate vessels of afar. The basic culinary erudition of all these people has surely made a tangible print in the fabric of today’s Bahrain.

  

BAHRAIN STORIES -Natural Pearls of Bahrain...continued

Diving for Pearls                                                                                             

Because of the non-existence of scuba equipment and wet suits early on, the pearls of the Arabian Gulf were collected by hand -- collected between the toes, then placed in bottles, and fur pouches -- by divers adept at holding their breath for long periods of time at depths of 160 feet below the surface. Throughout centuries of pearl fishing, a greater part of the population -- roughly sixty percent of Bahraini males -- worked in the pearl business trade that dominated the local economy and maintained countless seafaring vessels employed full-time. Of the thousands of oysters inspected at great depths though, only a small portion would generate pearls.                                                                                                       

The opening of new schools and changes in social and communal structures signaled the advent of significant developments brought on by the prosperous pearling industry.    

Newly wealthy pearl merchants surfaced (pardon the pun) from Bahrain’s thriving oyster centers in the Arabian Sea showing off a most effective demonstration of their prosperity: fancy, newly built residences (such as Siyadi House) and charitable trusts.

The Pearling Trade                                                                             

Shipped to Bombay, pearls were later distributed throughout the Indian Sub-Continent, where colossal trade markets waited them.  Accordingly, Bahraini pearl merchants returned from their Indian business journeys loaded with bags of silver and gold.The pearl fisheries of Bahrain kept boat manufacturers employed year round, even though the main pearling season lasted four months - from May to November.Two-mast or single sail Jalibuts (sambukas) and mahailas -- the pearling boats of choice -- were strongly sewn together with heavy cord much before iron nails materialized in these parts. Extremely seaworthy, these boats spent up to six months in the gusty Arabian Seas and the monsoon winds of the Indian Ocean.                                                                                                       

Diving for Pearls implicated patient endurance, as the method to collect the gems from the Gulf’s floor was a grueling one.

Documents from early 18th Century British colonists report that pearling boats “are propelled by heavy oars, each pulled by two men, who sing the song of the 'pearlers' as they row. Often the fleet returns at night when the moon and the tide are full. The sound of the sailors’ chanting and the splash of the oars carrying across the still waters overland. The sight of hundreds of white sails, some of them colored orange by the light of the fires burning on the decks, is one of the most picturesque in the world".

Advances and Endurance

Pearl divers from the 19th century developed a rather more advanced and interesting technique for collecting oysters at a faster pace.  Using bone nose clips to press their nostrils, thin leather gloves, cotton wool for their ears, plus a basket or pouch tied to their necks -- to place the collected shells in -- they found that their speed improved significantly. A heavy line (attached to a rock) was tied to one of their feet, allowing for a swift descent to the sea bottom, while another line held them at the waist.  After a typical 90 second dive -- with maybe a dozen, well-selected shells in the pouch -- the diver would signal the rope ‘puller’ in the boat above to hoist him up.  A full day may have consisted of an average of 30 to 40 such dives.  It’s needless to point out the strain these frequent dives may have had on their health, or the perils encountered in the submarine world.  ‘Pearlers’ received no daily earnings; however, the season’s profits were split equally among them; on good spells, divers worked 6 months out of the year; the pearling business being very profitable indeed.   Heaps of oyster shells were opened at sea and the pearls deposited in a coffer vigilantly guarded by the ship’s skipper. Oyster remains were thrown overboard. Pearl divers sang and played music as they sailed the waters of the Gulf for the six-month-long pearling season. A lead singer would keep motivation high among them; specific melodies marked the phases of their work, such as leaving port, their approach to the oyster banks, dropping anchor, diving in, etc.  A full meal in the early morning, and a supper of rice, dates and fish after sunset completed their exhausting day.                                                                          

About Pearls                                                                                                               

To untrained eyes, all pearls may look quite the same. There is, to the contrary, a complex pecking order to pearls, and some factors exist that determine their value.   Luster and size are generally considered the two key factors to look for. Luster, depends on the fineness and evenness of the nacre layers. Expert personnel in the bazaars and jeweler salons at two different malls explained to me that natural pearls have become so rare and expensive that for the vast majority of people they are off bounds. Natural pearls are very special and pricey indeed                                                      

Natural vs. Culture                                                                     

Natural pearls are formed by Mother Nature, an accident of life and without any human assistance. The Gulf’s pearls’ luster, color, shape, size and lack of imperfections are internationally distinguished.                                                                                                     Environmentally controlled cultured pearls form just the same as natural ones with the exception that the irritant that eventually forms them, is introduced into the oyster shells by humans; cultured pearls are raised in man-made oyster farms. Much the same way farmers plant seeds and await their growth, the pearl farmer cares for his oysters assisting nature in the creation of a crop of pearls. Even though it takes years to grow them, Chinese pearl farmers have recently fashioned a system that permits them to supply more pearls in a shorter time period. In the past few years, China’s cultured pearl farming has grown considerably, while Japan’s industry has stalled due to polluted waters, and higher wage expectations.Natural pearls can form in salt or fresh water; fresh water pearls generally grow within mussel, abalone or clam shells while salt water pearls grow inside oysters.       Salt water pearls seem to be usually larger than fresh water ones, being generally found       in oceans and other bodies of saltwater around the world; fresh water pearls however, grow inside mussels and other mollusks.  Lagoons, rivers and streams are potential breeding grounds for them.These gems tend to be smaller and less expensive than cultured salt water pearls.When cared for properly, pearls will last a lifetime and beyond. Because of their organic nature, all pearls require more specialized care than most other precious jewels. They are particularly subject to deterioration when in contact with chemicals, including components in perfumes, cosmetics and hair care products.  

Pearls throughout History                                                                             

Natural pearls possess intrinsic powers, allure and an enduring history that even their very fortunate owners fail to appreciate. Throughout much of recorded history, a necklace consisting of perfectly matched natural pearls was a treasure of almost incomparable value; the most expensive jewelry in the world.                                                                                                                               

Pearls, in fact, played a pivotal role in combination with other precious gems, becoming synonymous with power and wealth while routinely worn by men and women of the royal courts of European nobility and Asian empires. Marcus Aurelius of Rome, Queen Isabella of Spain, Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom as well as King Mongkut of Siam -to name just a few- were all clad in pearls.                                                                                              

Pearls whether natural, cultured, or fresh water remain a classic jewel today, sensible and elegant simultaneously, they blend with any type of clothing or event. Some women are never seen without their pearls as they denote prosperity and represent a lifetime investment. Pearls are timeless and made by Mother Nature; even the intrusive cultured pearl boasts prized importance.

It is significant to remember that the wealthy waters along the Arabian Gulf generated the world’s leading natural oyster beds. In fact, most pearls in trade until the late 19th century had originally been collected from these waters with unprecedented labor and adversity. The social and educational resources gained by Bahrain and other Gulf nations during that time contributed to today’s spirit of venture and expansion. Their economic power long since diminished, natural pearls, remain a national Bahraini symbol. Japan altered the world of pearling by enticing oysters to produce perfectly rounded pearls on demand, by manually changing the course of nature and creating the cultured pearl.                                                Pearls are valued throughout the world, regardless of origin; from the early producing oysters obtained by divers to the cultured and synthetic gems of today.

Interesting trivia from Bahrain MICE (Meetings Incentives Conferences & Exhibitions): Crowns of British monarchs from Henry VIII to Queen Elizabeth II, for instance, have contained at least one shining Bahraini pearl, while the Emperor of Japan, where cultured pearls are more commonplace, boasts a Bahraini pearl in his crown’.                                                           

                                      

                                                                                                         

BAHRAIN STORIES -Natural Pearls of Bahrain

The Bahraini Pearl                                                                                         
I have been acquainted with pearls since my move to the tiny Persian Gulf island of Bahrain nearly three years ago.  My curiosity about the little gems has led me into identifying and exploring the nature of their history and their collection.                                                                                                                                
Prior to written history, human beings -- in all probability -- came upon Gulf pearls while combing the seashore for food.  Throughout the ensuing centuries, however, divers would collect splendid natural pearls from the seas off the coast of the Arabian Peninsula, the Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar, creating a colossal domain that would set the stage for a unique undertaking that would eventually change the mercantile and social symmetry of the area.                                                                                                                                 

Known as the cradle of the pearling trade, Bahrain’s heritage and historical evidence confirm that some of the best gems emerged from its boundaries. Currently, diving for profit off the shores of Bahrain’s warm and shallow Arabian Gulf waters is a memory of the past as pearling is now almost entirely only practiced as a sport.                                                                                                 
Esteemed by many, the lustrous pearl is unique among the world’s gemstones. Reflecting light evenly and efficiently without glitter or sparkle, pearls are the only natural gems nurtured inside living organisms; the exquisite luster of Bahraini pearls derived from the distinctive fusion of the salty sea and the sweet water springs that collect near the coastal basin surrounding the islands. Bahrain in Arabic, means precisely 'two seas' referring to the natural springs that rise from the depth of its seabed. 

Origins                                                                                                              A natural pearl develops by accident within the oyster or mollusk, as the product of alien irritants such as grains of sand, dust particles, parasites or even seaweed that may squeeze into the shell. As a protection mechanism, the oyster secretes fluid -- called nacre -- around the irritant coating it and layering it repeatedly over time, until the pearl forms. When numerous irritants penetrate an oyster, several pearls may be uncovered within a single shell. Nacre, also known as mother of pearl, is the lustrous substance that makes up the gem.                                                                                                                    
Locally recorded accounts reveal that the superb reputation of Gulf pearls gave this area its significant commercial appeal. Cherished by numerous civilizations, men have forever been captivated by pearls; the Persians alleged pearls to be tears of the Gods, while Romans and Greeks considered them drops of dew and divine seeds, their delicate luster denoting wealth, purity and perfection.

Some 3000 years before Christ, men along these parts were diving for pearls off the Arabian Peninsula and the surrounding Persian Gulf islands. Bahrain is still considered the leading authority in the trade of the finest natural pearls. Even today, ‘man-altered’ cultured pearls are barred from the Bahrain gem market in an important effort to preserve its local heritage. 

  Legend, Affluence and Collapse                                     

Ancient Arabian tales portray pearls as the result of raindrops -- spilling over with moonlight -on their downward journey into the seas, to be received by partly opened oyster shells. Fantasy notwithstanding, the affluent oyster beds surrounding the islands, made Bahrain an important pearling sanctuary.                                                                           

Early on, in the ancient kingdom of Assyria, in northern Mesopotamia’s earliest recorded history, inscriptions remain making allusion to the ‘lustrous beads’ taken from the waters around Dilmun (Bahrain’s ancient name). Pearls created a center of magnetism for pirates, traders, and local divers -generating a platform for Arab and Persian tribal rulers- to clash in bloody warfare over control of the rich Arabian Gulf’s oyster resources.                                                                    

Lush oyster pearl banks embedded along the archipelago’s coastlines, and the booming business to harvest them, brought along vital economic revenue to Bahrain -exclusively- until the 1930’s The natural pearl industry and its life-style, however, were eventually replaced when a Japanese man by the name of Kokichi Mikimoto was propelled onto the world’s gem markets with the development and introduction of the cultured pearl. Since then, Japan has been a top leader on the market.                                                                     Opportunely enough, at about the time pearling was declining in the area -- due to over usage of coastal waters, the world’s economic depression, and the new-fangled cultured pearl development -the momentous discovery of oil launched Bahrain on a new passageway to prosperity.