POST CARDS FROM SIAM - The Thai 'Wai'

I would like to explain the Thai custom called “Wai Prah” and the graceful way of saying hello and farewell in Thailand. Just as in every other culture, Thais greet one another when they meet formally or informally. Generally, in the Western world and in business spheres of most countries, people who meet acknowledge the fact with a handshake.With the exclusion of Russians, who kiss and hug even when they don’t know one another; Eskimos, who rub noses; and Middle Easterners, who touch their heart with their right hand bowing their head slightly upon meeting you.

In Thailand however, greeting is a bit more complex; people here just “wai”.

This traditional “wai” symbolizes respect for another human being by acknowledging the importance of a person; the greeting is both formal and polite with the precise degree of respect conveyed in the expression. A “wai” is the motion of placing both palms together in a prayer-like gesture somewhere between the chest and forehead with a slight bow of the head and highlighted by a smile.  Practiced throughout Thailand, the “wai” is a graceful sign of recognition and reverence.

People’s age as well as social rank make a difference on who should “wai” first; no wonder most people in my high rise building “wai” me first thing every morning. Awareness of a person’s status is important for the exact height placement of the palms. Equals would greet by placing their hands at chest level; however, while “wai-ing” the Buddha images in temples, palms would be brought all the way to the forehead while lowering the head all the way down in reverence.

“Wais” are not offered to waiters, taxi drivers, or service and repair people; when they “wai’ me though, I do acknowledge them with a nod of the head or a smile. When I am unsure, I “wai” anyway because this shows that I do care and take the time to greet somebody, especially if the other person is older than I am.

The motion of the “wai” means hello and goodbye, welcome, and thank you all in one gentle gesture. Children “wai” at grownups but this isn’t reciprocal. The elderly, though, should be “wai-ed” to; as well as high ranking officials, royalty, teachers, professors, and when greeting a doctor at his/her office.

Showing reverence, obedience and respect, children within the family “wai” their parents by bringing their cupped hands all the way to the top of their foreheads; parents do not return the “wai”.  Learning and discipline are important and respected by all Thais; and schools and teachers have a place of honor because they make available the tools to succeed in life.  

Teachers and employers are also “wai-ed” to by their students and employees respectively, and Thais of all ages and ranks respectfully “wai” to all monks. As with parents, the “wai” will not be mutual.

You can imagine our confusion when within 5 days of our arrival in Thailand, a welcome reception with 200 invited Thai guests produced different degrees of “wai-ing”, and bowing.  When greeting so many people “wai-ing” can be exhausting!

In Thailand, the “wai” is looked on with affection, especially when coming from foreigners who have taken the trouble to learn a few simple cultural differences.  Like a smile, the “wai” sends the right messages and goes a long way creating a feeling of friendliness and attention.

Who would have thought a simple hello or goodbye could turn into such a cultural and consequential performance!

EdieWilcox@12/05

POST CARD FROM SIAM -Loy Kratong

This month, I wanted to share one of the loveliest and most popular festivals in Thailand; it is called Loy Krathong.  Dates for this celebration fluctuate yearly, but they always coincide with November’s full moon.

During the festival, people make their way to their nearby klong (canal) or river in the early evening hours and set their krathongs afloat.  And what is a krathong? You may ask. 

This was our first Loy Krathong in Thailand and we also wanted to know all about the krathongs and the reasons for the masses of people along the river. 'Loy' means ‘to float’ and 'krathong' means ‘leaf cup’.

Loy Krathong is a Thankgiving festival to honor the Water Goddess for providing a profusion of precious water for a bountiful harvest.  Loy Krathong is a time when a yellow, full moon is low in the sky and all the rivers and klongs are brimming over at the end of the rainy season.  Children and adults alike float their krathongs in rivers, canals, even swimming pools, believing this will bring good luck in the next harvest season. In the rural areas, children flock to the rivers near their homes, some getting there on motorbikes, water buffalo carts, or on foot; most making wishes for a better future, good crops and clean, drinking water.  In the city, wishes will vary but most will be in agreement with good health and prosperity.

Krathongs are small bowls made of either interwoven banana leaves or from paper mache; some are made of bread dough and varnished with resin.  Most children will make their own krathong projects in school much the same way we make our own Valentines in February.  krathongs may also be purchased in stores; there are all kinds of different ones all over town.  Once the krathong is made, flowers, a candle and three incense sticks are placed in it.  All three are lighted before the krathong is placed on the water.  People make a wish at the same time the little vessel is released onto the water. Some believe that if the candle remains burning until the krathong is out of sight, their wishes will come true. By the end of the evening, there are hundreds of flickering lights bobbing up and down rivers and canals all over Thailand. Firework displays as well as puppet shows and beauty contests are also part of the celebrations.

Most hotels along the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok have special (and expensive) events to celebrate the occasion with food, beautifully designed krathongs, beauty pageants and cruises down the river to witness the glowing displays.

Loy Krathong is a 700 year-old event derived from the old Kingdom of Sukhothai, the first monarchy of what is now the Thai peninsula.

The first celebration hallmarked the monsoon season’s conclusion and the most important rice harvest of the year. Historians observe that the festival parallels a farming Hindu tradition of thanksgiving; a blessing of sorts, for the abundance of rain water received.  

In fact, Sukhothai farmers created the practice of floating candles down rivers and canals to carry their gratitude and best wishes to the water spirits; there’s also the tale of a beautiful kingdom woman who made the first special lanterns for the festival, she made them from banana leaves and shaped them like lotus flowers. The king was impressed with what he saw, so he announced that krathongs would be floated down all waterways every year from then on. Today, the memory of that woman who made the first krathong is remembered in the beauty contests that take place all over Thailand on Loy krathong Day.

Some people place money in their krathongs, take a bow, and set them afloat along the crowded waterways, chock full of wishes and dreams.

Once krathongs are out of sight families play with fireworks and eat Tom Yum (a delicious soup) with shrimp, lemon grass and rice. On the whole, it is a joyous family day.

Following are some accounts of Loy Krathong from some of the elementary school children I work with.  

Manee: “On Loy Krathong I saw a full moon in the sky. I went to the river at the town hall. I went with my father, mother and sister. I took a krathong I made at school. I lighted the candle and incense sticks in my krathong. I pushed it away onto the water and prayed. After I finished floating it, I played lucky dip. I got three marbles, some sweets and toilet paper. I played with fire works and firecrackers.”

Tanet: “On Loy Krathong Day I went to the river by motorcycle. I went with my sister. I floated my krathong in the river. I saw many salespeople selling krathongs, fireworks and fire crackers. I took my krathong down to the river. I lighted the candle and incense sticks. Afterwards, I played hide and seek. I bought three tickets for 30 baht. I won toilet paper and sweets.”

Sunatee: “I went to Loy Krathong with my mother and my sister to the river. There was a full moon in the sky and the water was high. Many people were there. We floated our krathongs from a boat in the river. First we lighted the candle and incense sticks. Then we took a vow for good luck. Then we pushed our krathongs away. After we finished we ate in a restaurant. We ate rice noodle soup with vegetables and meat. It was very delicious. Then we played lucky dip at the Red Cross stall three times. We won a glass, a pen and a plate. Then we went home.”

Orawan: “Yesterday I went to the river near my house with my family. We took our krathongs to float on the river. I lighted the candle and incense sticks. I prayed and then I floated my krathong. Afterwards, I bought some fireworks and fire crackers. I then played with my sister and brother. At the river I met my friends. I chatted with them for a while. Then I went to a restaurant with my family. We ate some rice and chicken fried in fresh chili paste and basil.”

Have a wonderful holiday season!

POST CARDS FROM SIAM - Thai Spirit Houses

I have become fascinated with the Thai ‘spirit houses’ I see all over Thailand, remarkably, they not only look stunning, but they are works of art. Some are colorful and made of cement; others are intricately carved in teak wood, and standing on pedestals on the grounds of most properties. In present-day Thailand, animistic rituals are overtly practiced verifying that the spirit world surrounds our physical space; spirit houses are ubiquitous, typically freestanding in the outer corners of residential high-rise buildings, in commercial developments, in the backyards of private homes, and in and out of shopping centers as well. Even taxi drivers surround themselves with small replicas or altars on their cars’ dashboards. Spirits are invited to reside in these tiny homes to – in turn - protect the property and the residents within. 

Spirit dwellings are present throughout the country. Usually mounted on bamboo or stone bases, they are set to rest in one corner of the land area to be protected.  Spirit houses are placed in new and old properties to encourage good luck and deflect misfortune. They are ordinarily displayed predominantly in the garden making sure that their shadow never superimposes the main building. 

Thai people believe that spirits reside in animate as well as inanimate objects, inhabiting our world and moving freely in the same spaces that humans do. They are present in and within trees, rocks, oceans … the skies. 

Once a home is built or a move to a new place is intended, a house for the spirits must also be brought in, or constructed. We even bought one recently by the roadside that links the beach resort of Pattaya to Bangkok. It now proudly stands in a corner of our home’s patio, with a picture of my family placed within … to encourage auspiciousness.

When Buddhism first grasped the land of old Siam over 1500 years ago, animism or spirit worship had been practiced extensively throughout the region. Through time, animistic convictions have been greatly fused with Buddhism making it difficult to separate one religious belief from the other. 

In order to appease the spirits, Thais must make offerings of flower garlands, incense, candles and food placing them inside and outside the spirit houses; they also sprinkle holy water obtained from monks. Our own American Embassy compound in Bangkok contains a beautiful and elaborate spirit house on its premises.

Thai Buddhism and animism seem to be inseparable, much the same as pagan practices seem indivisible in Christianity (Christmas tree). In Thailand, Buddhism has progressed side by side with an ancient array of superstitions to explain nature, the cosmos, and the unexplainable. Religion is at the core of Thai culture giving life to all traditions, social systems; the arts and literature of the nation.

Bangkok for instance, is a busy, dangerous and overpopulated metropolis where people need protection, security and precautions to lead their lives.

Living in Bangkok makes for perpetual and erratic traffic patterns; holes and uneven pavement on streets and almost non-existent sidewalks obstruct pedestrians from walking safely in a congestion of exhaust fumes, motorcycles, small vans, smoke spewing buses and dangerous overhead wiring connections make daily life a perilous reality. 

Protection is greatly needed and the spirit world readily provides that security. No wonder every Thai home, business company, hospital and shop includes a spirit house on their premises – a refuge where offerings are exchanged for daily comfort and security in an uncertain world.

Finding ease and safety in a world of spirits is necessary; the Thais live primarily to truly enjoy their present life but at the same time, they aim to live it with decorum, good behavior and self control as these are superior principles in the attainment of final enlightenment. Believing in reincarnation means that each individual's karma (destiny) determines their fate.

By leading a superior life and observing the 5 important teachings: 

• Helping those of lesser means

• Kindness towards others 

• Donations to monks on their early morning rounds

• Contributions to the temple

• Meditation

By observation of all the above, enlightenment becomes possible.  

The belief that spirits inhabit everything that surrounds us provides contentment and comfort to the majority who along the way -- in the manner of good deeds, offerings to the spirits, the monks and the Buddha -- will unquestionably reach enhanced spiritual enlightenment and immortality of their soul.

In all probability, believers of animism seek to make sense of natural disasters and a violent world; appeasing the spirits through the creation of spirit houses and material offerings provides them with a shelter and a channel to balance and tranquility.

POST CARD FROM SIAM -Thailand's Floating Markets

Floating markets are possibly the most photographed places in Thailand.

Representing a centuries-old tradition of doing business, they have shaped culture and community with a new approach to trade.  Produce, fruit, flowers and cooked meals are bought and sold from overloaded boats in an aquatic balancing shopping act where customers buy from boat to boat, boat to pier or vice versa.

Prevailing from prior times, ‘Klong’ (canal) markets portray a reality of daily life that’s slowly dwindling as modern supermarkets and department stores are replacing the more traditional trade systems. For centuries, old Siam's entire economy was managed from small and big sampans -- depending on the volume and range of goods.

A few floating markets however, still survive today in Thailand and they are not only for tourists.

 Justifiably, Bangkok has been christened the ‘Venice of the East’ because the web of inland waterways has become a symbol of the city’s foundation.

Much of Bangkok’s 200 -year history is engaged along the meandering, wide and brown-watered -- foul smelling in places – lifeline that is the Chao Phraya River.  Criss-crossing and twisting its path through the bosom of Bangkok’s inner districts, the river still remains a necessary element in people’s daily lives as they commute to work, school or to shop the markets that flank the intricate grid of narrow side canals built during the reign of Rama IV, a monarch who had great concern for his kingdom’s economic growth.

 Before canals were constructed, transportation was almost non-existent; a connection between two rivers was made through a series of channels thus changing the way in which Siam conducted its business affairs. 

Later on, a bit before many of Bangkok’s water channels were turned into paved roads, the rivers and their many passages provided the only way of getting around this sprawling city. There are still many districts not far from the capital where channeled rivers are thriving arteries of trade and connection. Floating markets arose as a necessity of daily living and unlike other markets all of its business is conducted from inside the boats and alongside the canals.   

The Damnoen Saduak canal floating market is probably the most famous and picturesque of all water markets albeit crowded with tourists and vendors. It is about an hour away from Bangkok’s central business district by car and it may be reached by water boat as well.

Most people who want to experience the floating market make the journey by car and then get in a long canal boat or rice barge with an experienced ‘paddler’ to negotiate the crowded waters. The women paddling along the canals in their sarongs, round bamboo hats, and calloused hands row the boats laden with produce as well as the boats for the customers.

The Damnoen Saduak canal was dug out and built because the soil alongside it was rich and fertile. The area is famous for grapefruit, mangoes, bananas, grapes and coconuts. The canal originally enabled trouble-free trade with other villages and the transport of fruit, produce and flowers to the markets and shops of Bangkok.

Prior to emerging into the slender canal where the floating market begins to develop, we sailed by slow boat appreciating a different slice of traditional life as it proceeds along the many waterways of this land, we saw modest Thai villages on stilts, some with rowboats attached to makeshift bamboo piers; loaded banana trees and palms bent by the weight of coconuts; countless orchids, bougainvillea, tropical lilies and bird of paradise -- all flanking our progress.  On this Sunday morning there was a water buffalo drinking from the river and a man washing clothes at the back of his house.  Further up the channel there were children playing board games on a jetty nearby and we noticed an elderly woman in a wide bamboo hat cycling alongside the inland waterway carrying a basket of green papayas. Surprisingly clean, the canal waters in this area also expose a variety of marine life.  

The Damnoen Saduak canal is more than a means of transportation; it also supplies neighboring growers and their farms with sufficient water for their crops. Through the years, local farmers gradually dug out many inner arteries to connect with the main channel for steady irrigation and to operate independently from rain water.

Life for canal residents still preserves their strong connection to the river; natural, untainted surroundings inhabited by magnificent birds and a traditionally charming lifestyle that overshadows any other in the big city nearby.  

The floating markets of Thailand seem eternally crowded as boats with scores of shoppers and vendors trade agricultural products and local food brought from nearby orchards and farms.

Escorted by a long-established existence, villages along the canal experience ‘real’ -- not staged for tourists -- markets that operate from very early morning until noon. Those markets accessible to tourists though, have longer trading hours and souvenirs.

Floating markets stage a forceful and dramatic show as players hawking produce from rowing boats deliver life as is experienced in Siam.  

That is how I shall remember this land of color: a cacophony of vendors’ voices from every side of the canal and most of all, the peaceful villages shaped by the river and market culture, depicting an existence evocative of a different time period, appropriate to a scene from ‘Anna and the King’.