FENG SHUI IN THE GARDEN

Feng Shui (pronounced Fong Shuay) translates literally as “wind and water”. These are the principles from which the homes and gardens of ancient China have developed into a form of environmental art. Feng Shui refers to the arrangement of your spatial surroundings in order to bring about auspicious changes to your existence.

Masters of Feng Shui believe in strong interconnectedness linking the environment to our individual circumstances; what happens in our objective environs acutely maneuvers our psychological and spiritual well-being.

A Collective Life Force

Not long from now, the weather will turn cool and glorious, here in Bahrain, and arranging your garden with Feng Shui in mind, will provide you with a sanctuary of peace and beauty, while enhancing your possibilities for better health, good fortune, and trusted friendships. In addition, the quality of energy or chi, outside our homes, or flats attracts positive forces to the inside of our living spaces. Chi is the collective life force that inhabits in all things --animate or inanimate; it surrounds us, rising and falling around trees, gates, furniture, etc. It is invisible --but it is evident in the natural world through the rounded and irregular scenes of mountain peaks, sandy mounds, oceans, meandering brooks and wild-flower trails.

Experts know that straight lines and jagged angles contain damaging energy; common sense makes us cover up, or plant greenery to soften pointy or sharp areas in our living spaces. Gardens can capture propitious chi with water components such as ponds, fountains or simple bird baths of clean, clear water. Chi moves in a winding manner, slowing down wherever water is present. Water attracts the company of birds, insects and butterflies adding exuberant vitality to your landscape. When chi is allowed to playfully meander through your property, it positively influences all aspects of your life.

The Chinese believe that landscapes should be gently embellished, but should not be held back. Temperate areas yield magnificent flora in the cooler months so we can adorn that environment without controlling it. Feng Shui gardening is in actuality very rational. Most gardeners probably unknowingly, already integrate the principles of this ancient philosophy in their choice of flowering shrubs and trees. Taking a walk around your immediate garden area, look at what’s there. Is what you see pleasing to your senses? Do you feel peace and tranquility? If not, incorporate some Feng Shui gardening principles and you will soon be able to notice positive changes.

The Four Mythical Animal Formations

In Oriental design the perfect building site should be supported by a knoll at the back. The reason for this is to have the protection of the mythical Black Tortoise lending good backing to your home by re-directing energy all around it.If you have no hill or wall behind your house, you can compensate by planting a clump of banana or palm trees (they are fast growing), or by putting up elevated lights behind the property. In this manner it will appear higher than the front, thus allowing chi to flow effectively. The front yard is the domain of the red phoenix, who in a position lower than the other formations, allows wealth enhancing opportunities to enter your garden and your home. The left side of your house, as you stand facing out of your front door, is the green dragon’s territory -symbolizing power and abundance. The right side is the realm of the white tiger, the embodiment of yin energy. The all-powerful dragon’s side should be slightly higher than the tiger’s to keep the latter’s unpredictable energy under control. To remedy the fact that both sides may be level, you can always place a high pole with a wind sock on the left, to make it higher, and to bring positive energy to the green dragon’s side. In essence, the ideal house should be in the center of the property with protection at its back; slightly higher on the left than on the right side, and indented at the front -thus allowing chi to freely enter the land. A residence surrounded by high walls is not beneficial in Feng Shui.

Yin and Yang

The philosophy of universal duality is conveyed by the forces of Yin and Yang, opposite, yet mutually complimentary. Yin represents a quiet, dark, passive, soft force while yang is an active, bright, noisy force. Akin to shadows and sunshine, or babbling water running over quiet rocks in a stream; both are harmonizing yet different. A happy balance between these two forces can bring wholeness and unity to the garden. Yin and yang can be synchronized. Harmony between sunny and shady spots can be achieved by placing bougainvilleas or hibiscus in shady parts or by adding white smooth rocks to dark, narrow paths. Dry areas can be complemented with small babbling fountains and ponds while simultaneously balancing silence (yin) with sound (yang).

The Five Elements in the Feng Shui Garden

Feng Shui gardeners use the five elements and interplay them to bring about creative, auspicious energy. Water, wood, fire, earth, and metal co-exist in harmony in the garden while having positive and negative interactions. They are the ‘agents’ of chi representing colors and shapes. Their importance in the Feng Shui garden is to make sure no singular element is dominant over the others, and that there’s a yin/yang balance at all times.

Feng Shui Gardening Tips

1 - Gardens should be simple and natural using plantings that grow well in our area. These include common fig, temple tree or Singapore plumeria, oleander, and pencil trees amongst others. There are some beautiful eucalyptus trees in many climates, but they take lots of care, and years to reach maturity.

2 - Balance the size and shape of plantings.

3 - Give paths that are straight, a meandering look with potted plants, or stones along their edges.

4 - Bougainvilleas, jasmine and hibiscus are great cover ups for sharp edges and see- through fences. Make an area for contemplation near some fragrant bushes with perhaps a bench and a water fountain nearby

5 - Water in the garden is important and should be balanced with rocks or pottery. Nice touches for permanent ponds could include gold fish for wealth or a turtle for long life.

6 - In a smallish courtyard or balcony, residents can recreate the feeling of profuse gardens by using taller potted plants or shrubs towards the rear; a small water fountain with babbling sounds, hanging baskets of hardy, trailing ivy, wind chimes, and a wind sock, flying from a bamboo stick. All these ideas would certainly make for a lovely while simple arrangement!@ESW2004

CAIRO'S COLORFUL SPICE BAZAAR

Souq in Arabic simply means bazaar or market center. Today however, the term is normally used to refer exclusively to traditional Middle Eastern markets. 

Souq Khan al Khalili, locally known as’ the Khan’, is located on one of Cairo’s oldest roads in the heart of the Islamic city; al khalili, one of the greatest Middle Eastern bazaars -- active since the Middle Ages -- provides a unique trading experience.

Labyrinths of consecutive alleys can still be found, and rarities of every sort make their appearance.  Khan al Khalili has somehow managed to retain the atmosphere of olden times in the midst of new construction, and shopping possibilities.

A diverse mix of haggling locals and tourists are frequent visitors, browsing in its fascinating passageways and verifying the traditional concept of a thoroughly Middle Eastern marketplace. In the early peak hours, I enjoy the obvious good cheer, the smells, the sounds, and also the loud verses of the Qur’an on a CD -- coming from a player somewhere in the surrounding area -- welcoming shoppers; I relish in the visual confusion of the tiny shops crammed with merchandise, and the procession of buyers from close by and afar.  Weathered awnings and chipped tiles cover up the top overhead, keeping interiors and stands somewhat cooler in the warmer months. 

Clearly divided areas boasting colorful piece goods, perfume shops, money changing alleys, shoes, the tent-makers street, camel hair items, jewelers, and spice vendors -unmistakably lead the visitor to the merchandise they are aiming for.

Most outlets house tiny workshops where an assortment of artisans produce traditional objects of brass, inlaid boxes, shisha (hookah) water pipes and carpets by means of time-honored techniques, while ‘al fresco’ stands lure costumers with samples to the treasures inside.

The absorbing maze of slender and meandering streets; soaring noise levels and the odor of aromatic tobaccos and smoldering frankincense -- both odd and stimulating -- can effortlessly baffle neophytes into loosing their sense of direction.  The spice alley is one of the most fascinating areas for me. 

Spices in the Khan are sold in bulk.  In this section every shop displays colorful blends on their open-air stands: there are small and large mounds of finely-ground powders, pleasantly fragrant seeds, pods, colorfully arranged ‘ pyramids’ of spices, and booths of large, dried tobacco leaves to be used for shisha smoking; many kinds of nut meats -shelled and unshelled also make an appearance.  Suffice it to say that virtually any herb or spice known in the world can be found at the Khan.

This is a crisp autumn day in Cairo; people are in a festive mood, anticipating the Eid al fitr celebrations of Ramadan’s end, and the spice souq is abundantly supplied for the local demand of Egyptian, and Indian spices. There’s hustle and bustle as tradesmen go about their commercial deals. I love to stand in a corner, in the background -just witnessing, learning how to haggle, how to ask and how to approach.  Somehow a few things seem to be done in different ways than I am used to.

Because of its culturally diverse background, extensive trading connections with India, and the Far East -coupled with Roman, Greek, French and British influences- Egypt has developed a taste for an array of spices that merge local and foreign traditions.

At the spice souq, vendors are friendly and willing to let you get a pinch of this, a taste of that, and a free smell, dispensing as many or as few grams of whatever spice you need.  Many delicious and interesting smells come up from the dust produced as spices are measured, some ground in front of your eyes.  It is a fragrant pleasure to be able to see and smell the varieties. I find it interesting that a spice transaction seems to be of such importance, taken seriously, in many cases husbands and wives negotiating the deal.

The spice souq positively revels in its sensuous and aromatic splendour – an ancient traditional trading place, it has none of the mysteries of a bazaar in Marrakesh or Ulan Bator; it’s neither as crowded, nor as colourful. However, the magic still exists in the execution of business in an old-fashioned manner as well as in the enticing olfactory trip, prompting people to crowd the spice area more densely than other parts of the souq.

Saturated in an atmosphere of enticing smells, I wander up and down the narrow lanes breathing in the scents of.bark and stick cinnamon, star cloves, and anise seed, cardamom pods, camomile flowers, cumin, dried coriander leaves, nutmegs, dried hibiscus, spicy ginger, multi-coloured pepper corns, small red chillies, turmeric and strongly scented fenugreek; vendors beckoning, loudly promoting their products. I enjoy the sequence of spice shops, the affable people, and the flavoured loose teas, the stacks of seed pods and nuts, with hanging herbs overhead: a feast for the eyes.  There’s also dukka, an Egyptian spice blend and containers of bright blue indigo and green henna powders.

Imported from all over the Middle East and beyond, these spices are sold from mounds neatly arranged on the stands or straight out of open bags and bins surrounding the inside and outside of the dark tiny shops. This is a special place, with its own pulse, its own heart-beat of centuries past; it possesses an exotic street life that even if somehow has lost its former lustre, it still remains a visual feast.

In its beginnings the Khan’s spice alley provided the most unique and colorful seasonings; today however, spices no longer dominate the scene; incense and perfumes of every possible scent have taken over larger areas of the souq.

Don’t leave the Khan though,  without purchasing at least some grams of dukka (Egyptian spice), a blend of sesame seeds, roasted chick peas, coriander and cumin seeds, peppercorns, salt, and dry thyme or mint ground up to form a homogeneous mix of flavors used in Egypt as a table condiment as well as a dip. Dipping bread in olive oil and then into the dukka mix will certainly inspire visions of legendary pharaohs.

BAHRAIN STORIES -Enduring Wind Towers

Wind Towers: their sheer name summons a bygone era of mystifying resourcefulness. Wind towers are my preferred structures, as they are a time-honored heritage of this island-state’s architectural design. It is believed that the concept of the wind tower or barjeel (from Farsi), was first set in motion in old Persia, where architectural innovations for desert housing were first started. A clear blueprint of Persian architectural, artistic, and scientific prowess has been revealed by archeologists and historians, both searching for answers to this distinctive and graceful architectural element.

The ingenious tower structures were designed to create comfort for those living in the hot and extremely dry fringes of the Persian desert. Consistent with archaeological research, the arid surroundings of the aged town of Yazd in Iran has the oldest known wind towers in the world. The stylish and high rising barjeels were developed using the wind’s energy to cool people’s homes in the agonizing desert heat.

Bahrain's Islamic heritage is manifest in its few enduring wind towers mostly found in old Muharraq, the old Manama quarter near the American Mission hospital, and in few of the country’s old villages.  Although the concept was developed in Persia centuries ago, the wind towers seem to have influenced the Arabian Gulf area because of their functionality, simplicity, and suitability to the local climate and social traditions. Island weather can be very windy at times, making the structures (open on all four sides), the perfect cooling tool.  Wind towers provided a surprisingly efficient form of summer ventilation, drawing in the wind through their high structures, while acting as channels for the re-direction of trapped air to the rooms in the inner courtyards below.  Living and sleeping areas of a house were located right under the barjeel to directly receive the cool air.  In winter, wind towers could be gated, or covered up with lumber to shield the rooms underneath from rain and cold winds.

The top half of the tower was built with an inner flue or funnel system, making the air speed downwards through it due to a pulling downdraft effect.  Meanwhile, rising, interior warm air could find its way out through the funnel’s upper openings.  

One of four hollowed sides would always capture the breeze no matter how minimal, or in which direction the wind blew.  Wooden rods reinforcing the structure, rising 5 to 6 meters above the top of the house were left in place for the up-keep and cleaning of the tower chambers. 

It is evident that religion and social tradition played a part in the development and building of wind towers. Indoor courtyards are perfect examples of an architectural style used to complement religious principles. Barjeels fulfilled Islamic laws’ conditions of virtue and seclusion enforced on women by providing an inward-looking home.  This type of home had no obvious outer windows, but only small, high openings to aid in the release of warm air. 

 Bahraini houses were designed with tradition in mind. Interior courtyards provided seclusion for the women in the household, while the distinctive and ingenious barjeels could keep rooms cool during the long and hot summer months. Courtyards offered cool, open spaces where chores and family activities could be carried out in privacy; women could move from room to room without being seen from the outside or from other exterior rooms, such as the male receiving areas. The sheltered and windowless homes prevented unsolicited or unplanned contacts, so that women doing housework or socializing inside experienced a feeling of retreat, thus being able to unveil and remove their abayas.                                                     

A traditionally beautiful home to visit is the 18th century Bait Shaikh Isa Bin in Muharraq, featuring intricately carved doors, a working wind tower and remarkable arabesque moldings. Trekking about the city you will find many old structures that deserve to be photographed, as some traditional dwellings still exist.  One can rest assured that patience and a keen eye will reward you while probing through old villages, Muharraq’s old quarter, and areas around Bab al Bahrain. Good examples of pre-oil boom traditional buildings, particularly those featuring masharabia (wooden lattice work), courtyards and barjeels still survive amid new tall structures.

            Expanding its financial horizons by diversifying its economy, Bahrain has been a bystander to obvious population growth. While influenced by tremendous socio-cultural and economic transformations, the country has seen an explosion of architectural developments with gigantic ventures being constructed, in an attempt to increase and improve lodging and commercial property for all.

Changes in economic wealth afforded changes in social, cultural, and architectural adjustments. Bahrain embarked on the construction of a rising skyline that flourishes alongside traditional and colonial buildings. Progress has brought new trends in design and sophisticated construction expertise.

            Fortunately, traditional architecture has regained definite splendor as fresh awareness of the significance of heritage has acquired new momentum. Contemporary buildings are using traditional characteristics such as barjeels, domes, courtyards, and artistic desert colors alongside fashionable conveniences like escalators, automatic walkways, lifts, air conditioning, and fiber and sun reflective glass.  Furthermore, architects and designers from around the world are presently developing a few projects using the ancient wind tower’s cooling methods.  This may not be practical for construction inside cities, but architects feel that remote, cooler, northern hemisphere areas may be able use the barjeel expertise effectively.

A dash of romanticism is involved as one imagines that in simpler days long past, the smart almost magic, square wind tower rose into the blue skies of Bahrain as well as other coastal towns and villages along the Arabian Peninsula representing an ancient era before the advent of electricity and high technology. 

 Towers TTTTTT5 to 6 meters 

BAHRAIN STORIES -Arabic Coffee

Bahrain.The summer heat exceeds all majestic expectations of hell on earth with 90% humidity as cloudless skies hold center stage for the hazy sun. We haven’t had any rain since January or February and very little at that.

Yesterday the whole country had a power outage. It began at 8:30 a.m., electricity returning by early evening. People were advised to go home leaving blistering office buildings for the torture of homes with neither water nor air conditioning. Water in Bahrain comes mostly from desalination plants powered by electricity. There was chaos and confusion on the roads as thousands of people turned to their air conditioned cars, abandoning homes and work-places to seek some comfort as temperatures soared to 110 F and that's with very high humidity. Many took to the shores of the Persian Gulf to cool off while others just stayed home sweating it out.

The whole island was paralyzed for nearly 12 hours. No traffic signals, no gas, no restaurants, or malls –they were all shut down because no one here believes in backup generators, except for two supermarkets which were able to stay open till 4 p.m.  Apparently, the blackout was caused by an accidental, massive power surge from the Bahrain Aluminum plant into the national electrical grid.

 Aside from this twist of fate during our first week back in the Kingdom, we have realized that Arabic food is what we missed most while being away. Taking the time to test and discover the great wealth of Arabian gastronomy, one is on the way to heaven.  On a future post-card from Bahrain, I’ll share more on that topic. This time however, I’d like to chatter about the wonderfully aromatic Arabic Coffee traditionally made from the finest Ethiopian coffee beans with dashes of cardamom -- the way Bahrainis like it.  It takes a little getting used to, but it really tastes good especially with quality plump, sweet dates; the customary sign of an Arabian household welcome.

Hospitality in Arabian homes is renowned the world over, and the long-standing practice of serving visitors freshly-brewed coffee is a Muslim trademark of true greeting whether the visit’s purpose is a social or business one.

Coffee (gahwa) for a traditional Bahraini welcome encompasses a lengthy but simple method of preparation, neither instant coffee here nor a measure of coffee into a filter.

Coffee is brewed only a few cups at a time and generally to order, i.e. strong, medium and so strong depending on the drinker’s preference. Once coffee grounds settle on the pot’s bottom the brew is served and drunk hot accompanied by sweet dates or pastries. Orange blossom essence may be added for individual flavoring if desired, and some people prefer adding fresh cardamom seeds while the coffee is being prepared.

Preparing coffee includes a ceremonial long handled brass pot used only for coffee making.  These pots are frequent wedding gifts and are said to last a life-time. The pot is smallish, as it only holds 4 to 8 small servings, maybe 3 ounces each.  Arabian coffee is generally strong and thick.  Water and sugar are boiled in the pot for about 2 minutes, until clear; then ground coffee is added and thoroughly stirred in. Once this mixture boils and foams to the top, it is removed from the fire and allowed an important ten minute ‘development phase’ to allow grounds to reach the pot’s bottom. Sometimes a bit of cold water is added to settle the grounds to the bottom.  After flavoring with a few pods of cardamom or saffron threads, if desired, the dark brew is gently poured into the shining brass dallah, (coffee server) making sure the coffee grounds remain in the pot. Sugar quantities vary depending on the event. The sweeter the coffee the happier the event; coffee at weddings, births and birthdays is rich, afternoon or after dinner coffees are modestly sweetened.  Coffee is served bitter at funerals.

As is the case with other enjoyable occasions, sharing and drinking coffee with friends, relatives or business associates, is a ceremony.  The hosts personally fill and pass the small cups to their guests, the coffee tray sometimes held by an assisting maid.  When men are hosting other men, the eldest one is served first; the same rule being observed for women’s gatherings.

A novice Arabic coffee drinker may be surprised at the thickness and strength of the beverage, so a few sips may be more than adequate. This is the case where taste is definitely acquired.   

Arabian connoisseurs are adamant about roasting coffee beans over a charcoal fire and then having them ground in a stone mortar -- immediately before the coffee is actually brewed -- claiming that in this manner pure coffee flavor is preserved.

Many people love their coffee very black, thick and with sediments in the bottom.

Coffeehouses are very popular in this country. Most of them are inside shopping centers but many others are individual establishments scattered all over the island.  People (mostly men) love to sit and smoke shisha with their friends to discuss world affairs as they watch the world go by.  However, that’s another story!

BAHRAIN STORIES -Coffee Houses of the Persian Gulf

A strong flavored cup of coffee seems to bring out a feeling of camaraderie, a need for togetherness and warmth. The flavor and aroma of coffee captures these sentiments -rating high in people’s daily schedules.  A coffee break brings a satisfying lull to a busy day, a relaxing chance to just sit and sip. I have noticed that even the smallest commercial hub will have an area with tables and chairs where people can meet and enjoy a cup of java.

Coffee's ancestry is broadly disputed, and akin to fine wines, it is masked in mysterious legends and controversy. Many versions on how this amazing concoction came to be have been explored in the recent past.

The following attracts me the most.

Apparently coffee is over a century old, and had its origins in the Ethiopian highlands.  Word of mouth accounts suggest that a shepherd and his goats came upon some aromatic dark red berries, which after being sniffed and chewed gave him and his herd a sense of euphoria. Shortly after that fortuitous event, they found themselves coming back to the same spot everyday --for the berries and the unexplained feeling of well-being.

Reports spread to the local monastery, where resident monks promptly experimenting with the reddish kernels, found that by either chewing or steeping them into a beverage, allowed them to remain alert late into the night as they pursued their studies and prayers.

In the vicinity of Middle Eastern souqs, the wafting aroma of coffee permeates the air as people dash about their business. The many coffee houses that line the urban sidewalks and alleyways teem with activity as recently brewed coffee beans manipulate consumers with their tangy and enticing persuasion. 

A small number of traditional open air coffee houses still exist along the Corniche of Manama’s old town and other cities in the Middle East catering to shisha smokers (Arabic water pipe), and an older generation of backgammon and domino-playing coffee drinkers. Lovely views of green-blue waters along the Arabian Gulf complete the picture. Traditional coffee houses and shisha go hand in hand, both being Bahraini institutions unchanged for years and thriving throughout the island. They are part of Manama’s social scene, an integral element in the local agenda. However, many have been somewhat eclipsed by the assortment of stylish cafes that cater to younger, more sophisticated residents. As tradition dictates, coffee houses are packed with smoke, coffee drinking and socializing.  These assembly spaces represent a familiar environment conducive to conversation and the exchange of ideas; a kind of forum, acting as a channel for heightened reflection and creativity. Rustic wooden benches, board games and colorful striped cushions complete the scene.

Contemporary coffee houses are not simple affairs anymore.  Apart from the newer, more popular franchised institutions, Bahrain is host to many new chic and trendy shops. Some are part of the large shopping complexes, while many others are independent, springing up in neighborhoods and villages all over the Middle East; a clear indication of their financial success. These -new generation lounges - boast plush sitting arrangements, lovely indoor plants, water fountains, and antiques.

The International Coffee Association (ICA) claims that from its origins in Ethiopia, coffee bean cultivation spread throughout Northern Africa and the whole of the Arabian Peninsula. On its way to Turkey the coffee beans began to be roasted over open fire pits, then crushed and boiled in sugary water, resulting in a heavy, syrupy concoction.  

Dutch traders transported the coffee plants from Ethiopia to their colonies in Indonesia --the highlands of Java and Sumatra. Once there, and years after successful cultivation, the coffee business made its way to Italy, Holland and the rest of Europe where the dark concoction attracted merchants, and scholars alike.

Because of its euphoric producing effects, the brew received unsympathetic scorn from the Catholic Church --to no avail however, as during the 16th century, coffee became the preferred infusion of aristocrats and intellectuals.

As European settlers crossed the north and South Atlantic Ocean towards the Americas, the coffee rage was in full swing.  From Saint Maarten and Surinam (both Dutch territories), coffee plantations expanded north and west to Central America and Colombia, and south towards Brazil, where they became major economic assets.

Most of the world’s coffee comes from areas sharing similar ideal conditions, requiring exposure to temperature extremes, altitudes upwards of a thousand meters, hot sun, copious rain, and cool nights, thus producing bursting, flavorful bodied coffee beans.

The ICA has identified over 25 major varieties of coffee plants, although our consumer markets are familiar with just two: arabica and robusta beans. Experts say that seventy per cent of all coffee exports come from the Brazilian arabica bean, while robusta coffee beans are grown in West and Central Africa, and across Asia. The latter is mostly used in blends, while the arabica is the only one drunk in its full strength, unblended.  

The fragrant arabica bean was introduced in Kenya early in the 20th century becoming the country's prime foreign exchange revenue.

Coffee growers claim that today, coffee is the world's most popular beverage after water, with over 400 billion cups consumed annually.

Apparently, the very first coffee houses originated in Mecca during the 15th century, where they were called 'qahveh khaneh'. These had originally been spiritual and political meeting places soon becoming social areas for singing, exchanging news, story-telling and gossip. Coffee houses in the Middle East were in reality, the forerunners of the European café societies which developed in Paris, and Vienna becoming known as ‘enlightened’ meeting places for intellectuals, and gossip mongers.

In contemporary times our delight in coffee houses comes from their convivial, lively surroundings and a relatively inexpensive and stimulating beverage.

We celebrate and find contentment in a well-known, time-tested tradition that has endured through generations and people of different ethnic backgrounds.

I was recently in one of Cairo’s popular coffee alcoves -- a combination café, art-house,

scrap collection, a veil of smoke in the air, people chatting -- marveling at the uniformity and continuity sustained through the years.

 Poles apart from olden times, when only men gathered to discuss the changing events on the political front, coffee houses have now become common meeting places for loud female students, housewives relaxing after a day of shopping, girlfriends on their lunch breaks, and business colleagues after a day’s work.

Arab women have joined the coffee house culture becoming regular customers, occasionally smoking, seeking comfortable seats and benefiting from friendly social banter. Coffee’s reviving compounds contain acceptable stimulants giving zest to the rest of the day, or night.  Much as in olden days, people enjoy taking a break from the day’s activities to enjoy a cup of coffee, engage in dialogue and perhaps listen to music, read or talk on their cell phones. The many choices offered at area establishments transcend those of a simple coffee shop.

If you feel like staying home but want to prepare an exceptional cup of coffee, two essentials are required: the finest quality coffee beans you can afford, and that these are freshly roasted. Roasted coffee is an extremely perishable product; it must be stored in the freezer so that it retains its freshness and original flavor.  A coffee maker and an inexpensive grinder are basic; grind as much coffee as is needed, and measure amounts carefully, depending on how many servings are required. Remember to start with room temperature filtered, spring or bottled water for the best cup.                                          

We have certainly come a long way from the days of regular or decaf!   We now have lattes, cappuccinos, coffee has now gone gourmet! Almond amaretto, mocha, French vanilla and hazelnut, caramel - just to name a few – words that have crossed into our coffee world.  If you are worried about high blood pressure or weight control, you can now order or buy your coffee in a decaffeinated version, (without deprivation of its flavor) and use low fat, rice or soy milk.  In some countries, coffee shops are including soy, almond, walnut and barley milk as alternatives to dairy. Hence, what better entertainment after a hard day’s labor or a few hours of shopping than to stretch in a comfy chair with a cup of java in hand, watching the world go by.  Go ahead, sip it slowly, and inhale the fragrance of those historic coffee beans.

BAHRAIN STORIES -Mezze

Traditional Bahraini hospitality comes to life through the vibrant flavors of its cooking. The Middle Eastern diet -- similarly to the Mediterranean -- is healthy because it includes fresh fruits, vegetables and plenty of fish and lean cuts of chicken and lamb.

The ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and Egypt embraced an assortment of cultural traditions which generated some of the world’s most important religious doctrines: Judaism, Christianity, and later on Islam.  At their inception, a blend of different beliefs, customs and food preferences emerged.

The landmass of Peninsular Arabia includes vast areas of arid, sandy and unforgiving climate, and the Bedu people -- or desert dwellers – have endured the barren regions while learning to survive in extremely desolate conditions. Cooking ‘on the road’ became a way of life, as whole settlements moved seasonably roving the desert in search of water and food for their animals. A great deal of traditional Middle Eastern cooking originated in the desert tents of the nomadic Bedouin tribes. Only transportable foods such as rice, dates and wheat could be easily stored in camel saddlebags and used throughout a season.

Later on with the Muslim conquests, the Bedouin domain -- originally including only geographical Arabia -- expanded.  With Syria and Egypt annexed to Islam, the Bedu of those territories journeyed in caravans throughout the Middle Eastern lands discovering new spices and vegetables which were promptly added to their existing culinary endeavors.

Adapting exceptionally well to harsh desert conditions, Bedu cooking was influenced by whatever they were able to butcher or trade as they moved from camp to camp. Salting and drying meats was a common task Bedu women had to perform, while camel, goat and horse dairy products were, by and large, their sustenance staples. As inter-territorial innovations surfaced, a broader, more ‘international cuisine’ emerged.

When tribal Arabians crossed over to the Bahraini Islands -- just 15 miles east off the Arabian mainland -- they brought their Bedouin customs, their camels, their horses and their time-tested recipes with them.

Not many local cookbooks exist in Bahrain today as oral recipes have been generally handed down from generation to generation throughout time. The different ways of preparing a common dish distinguish it from family to family or from village to village, extending back to the family’s original tribal ancestors. 

 One of my favorites is mezze, welcoming little dishes of scrumptious appetizers presented to company at parties but also served at restaurants.  

By combining several mezze together, it is possible to come up with a light and satisfying meal.  It is part of the Middle Eastern experience to observe people as they enjoy an extended mezze assortment.  Often accompanied by drinks, these appetizers pave the way to a meal, or may appear at an afternoon coffee event or a mid morning women’s social tea.

A Bahraini meal will usually start with mezze, a ritual which could amount to a

 stylish feast of a few dozen tasty treats, or a simple platter laden with olives, boiled eggs, pickles, hummus and pita bread. The popularly known baba ghanoosh, hummus and tabbouleh salad are loved here just as much as they are in the USA. However, there are various additional types of mezze that may go unrecognized outside the Middle East. 

Some of my choices include small kebabs made of chicken or lamb; falafel - spicy balls made with chickpea flour, deliciously wrapped with crunchy salads in warm pita bread as a sandwich, with added garlic yogurt or tahini sauce (a blend of lemon juice, sesame and olive oils); Kalaj – a feta cheese puffed pastry that’s oven baked; foul medammas - boiled broad beans with lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. Sambousak, a pastry filled with ground lamb and pine kernels or haloumi cheese. 

The spices and components used in the preparation of most mezze acknowledge the traditional ancient produce and ingredients of old Mesopotamia, the Arabian Peninsula and the Mediterranean sea; items such as eggplants, grape leaves, figs, chick peas, cracked wheat, garlic, goat cheeses, spinach, tomatoes and olives are favorites; medlars and pomegranates are also widely used.
The word mezze may be derived from the Persian ‘maza’ which means ‘savor, relish’ or from the term ‘mazmiz’, Arabic for snacking.The tradition of mezze extends from Turkey to Greece, through the Balkan countries, Egypt and all of the Middle East to Israel. The famous Spanish tapa appetizers -- no doubt -- place their origin in Middle Eastern mezze.  A basic mezze spread may include a platter of feta cheese or yogurt cheese, three or four types of olives, some dips and salads with pomegranate seeds, and a basket of warm pita bread; for beverages mint water or juices such as freshly squeezed orange, apple, carrot or pomegranate, all delicious and readily available almost anywhere in Bahrain. 

Zesty orange blossom water and cardamom spice are always standing by to ‘soften’ strong Arabic coffee when that’s the beverage of choice.                                                                     I hear that the 'mezze' tradition of the Middle East and the Eastern Mediterranean has gained attention in fashionable culinary circles throughout the world. Mezze are mostly enjoyed over several hours of drinking and chatting, preferably in a beautiful outdoor setting. Winter weather in Bahrain is nearly ideal so dining under the stars in patios and inner courtyards is a habitual obsession.                  

Exploring Bahraini culture through its cuisine is -- without a doubt -- one of the most pleasurable aspects of living in the area.

The refinement of Arab hospitality has attained excellence in Bahrain, where for time immemorial its roads have always been open to cultural diversity.  Early prosperity arrived from all corners linking the islands to Bedouin Arabian caravans and sailing pirate vessels of afar. The basic culinary erudition of all these people has surely made a tangible print in the fabric of today’s Bahrain.

  

BAHRAIN STORIES -Natural Pearls of Bahrain...continued

Diving for Pearls                                                                                             

Because of the non-existence of scuba equipment and wet suits early on, the pearls of the Arabian Gulf were collected by hand -- collected between the toes, then placed in bottles, and fur pouches -- by divers adept at holding their breath for long periods of time at depths of 160 feet below the surface. Throughout centuries of pearl fishing, a greater part of the population -- roughly sixty percent of Bahraini males -- worked in the pearl business trade that dominated the local economy and maintained countless seafaring vessels employed full-time. Of the thousands of oysters inspected at great depths though, only a small portion would generate pearls.                                                                                                       

The opening of new schools and changes in social and communal structures signaled the advent of significant developments brought on by the prosperous pearling industry.    

Newly wealthy pearl merchants surfaced (pardon the pun) from Bahrain’s thriving oyster centers in the Arabian Sea showing off a most effective demonstration of their prosperity: fancy, newly built residences (such as Siyadi House) and charitable trusts.

The Pearling Trade                                                                             

Shipped to Bombay, pearls were later distributed throughout the Indian Sub-Continent, where colossal trade markets waited them.  Accordingly, Bahraini pearl merchants returned from their Indian business journeys loaded with bags of silver and gold.The pearl fisheries of Bahrain kept boat manufacturers employed year round, even though the main pearling season lasted four months - from May to November.Two-mast or single sail Jalibuts (sambukas) and mahailas -- the pearling boats of choice -- were strongly sewn together with heavy cord much before iron nails materialized in these parts. Extremely seaworthy, these boats spent up to six months in the gusty Arabian Seas and the monsoon winds of the Indian Ocean.                                                                                                       

Diving for Pearls implicated patient endurance, as the method to collect the gems from the Gulf’s floor was a grueling one.

Documents from early 18th Century British colonists report that pearling boats “are propelled by heavy oars, each pulled by two men, who sing the song of the 'pearlers' as they row. Often the fleet returns at night when the moon and the tide are full. The sound of the sailors’ chanting and the splash of the oars carrying across the still waters overland. The sight of hundreds of white sails, some of them colored orange by the light of the fires burning on the decks, is one of the most picturesque in the world".

Advances and Endurance

Pearl divers from the 19th century developed a rather more advanced and interesting technique for collecting oysters at a faster pace.  Using bone nose clips to press their nostrils, thin leather gloves, cotton wool for their ears, plus a basket or pouch tied to their necks -- to place the collected shells in -- they found that their speed improved significantly. A heavy line (attached to a rock) was tied to one of their feet, allowing for a swift descent to the sea bottom, while another line held them at the waist.  After a typical 90 second dive -- with maybe a dozen, well-selected shells in the pouch -- the diver would signal the rope ‘puller’ in the boat above to hoist him up.  A full day may have consisted of an average of 30 to 40 such dives.  It’s needless to point out the strain these frequent dives may have had on their health, or the perils encountered in the submarine world.  ‘Pearlers’ received no daily earnings; however, the season’s profits were split equally among them; on good spells, divers worked 6 months out of the year; the pearling business being very profitable indeed.   Heaps of oyster shells were opened at sea and the pearls deposited in a coffer vigilantly guarded by the ship’s skipper. Oyster remains were thrown overboard. Pearl divers sang and played music as they sailed the waters of the Gulf for the six-month-long pearling season. A lead singer would keep motivation high among them; specific melodies marked the phases of their work, such as leaving port, their approach to the oyster banks, dropping anchor, diving in, etc.  A full meal in the early morning, and a supper of rice, dates and fish after sunset completed their exhausting day.                                                                          

About Pearls                                                                                                               

To untrained eyes, all pearls may look quite the same. There is, to the contrary, a complex pecking order to pearls, and some factors exist that determine their value.   Luster and size are generally considered the two key factors to look for. Luster, depends on the fineness and evenness of the nacre layers. Expert personnel in the bazaars and jeweler salons at two different malls explained to me that natural pearls have become so rare and expensive that for the vast majority of people they are off bounds. Natural pearls are very special and pricey indeed                                                      

Natural vs. Culture                                                                     

Natural pearls are formed by Mother Nature, an accident of life and without any human assistance. The Gulf’s pearls’ luster, color, shape, size and lack of imperfections are internationally distinguished.                                                                                                     Environmentally controlled cultured pearls form just the same as natural ones with the exception that the irritant that eventually forms them, is introduced into the oyster shells by humans; cultured pearls are raised in man-made oyster farms. Much the same way farmers plant seeds and await their growth, the pearl farmer cares for his oysters assisting nature in the creation of a crop of pearls. Even though it takes years to grow them, Chinese pearl farmers have recently fashioned a system that permits them to supply more pearls in a shorter time period. In the past few years, China’s cultured pearl farming has grown considerably, while Japan’s industry has stalled due to polluted waters, and higher wage expectations.Natural pearls can form in salt or fresh water; fresh water pearls generally grow within mussel, abalone or clam shells while salt water pearls grow inside oysters.       Salt water pearls seem to be usually larger than fresh water ones, being generally found       in oceans and other bodies of saltwater around the world; fresh water pearls however, grow inside mussels and other mollusks.  Lagoons, rivers and streams are potential breeding grounds for them.These gems tend to be smaller and less expensive than cultured salt water pearls.When cared for properly, pearls will last a lifetime and beyond. Because of their organic nature, all pearls require more specialized care than most other precious jewels. They are particularly subject to deterioration when in contact with chemicals, including components in perfumes, cosmetics and hair care products.  

Pearls throughout History                                                                             

Natural pearls possess intrinsic powers, allure and an enduring history that even their very fortunate owners fail to appreciate. Throughout much of recorded history, a necklace consisting of perfectly matched natural pearls was a treasure of almost incomparable value; the most expensive jewelry in the world.                                                                                                                               

Pearls, in fact, played a pivotal role in combination with other precious gems, becoming synonymous with power and wealth while routinely worn by men and women of the royal courts of European nobility and Asian empires. Marcus Aurelius of Rome, Queen Isabella of Spain, Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom as well as King Mongkut of Siam -to name just a few- were all clad in pearls.                                                                                              

Pearls whether natural, cultured, or fresh water remain a classic jewel today, sensible and elegant simultaneously, they blend with any type of clothing or event. Some women are never seen without their pearls as they denote prosperity and represent a lifetime investment. Pearls are timeless and made by Mother Nature; even the intrusive cultured pearl boasts prized importance.

It is significant to remember that the wealthy waters along the Arabian Gulf generated the world’s leading natural oyster beds. In fact, most pearls in trade until the late 19th century had originally been collected from these waters with unprecedented labor and adversity. The social and educational resources gained by Bahrain and other Gulf nations during that time contributed to today’s spirit of venture and expansion. Their economic power long since diminished, natural pearls, remain a national Bahraini symbol. Japan altered the world of pearling by enticing oysters to produce perfectly rounded pearls on demand, by manually changing the course of nature and creating the cultured pearl.                                                Pearls are valued throughout the world, regardless of origin; from the early producing oysters obtained by divers to the cultured and synthetic gems of today.

Interesting trivia from Bahrain MICE (Meetings Incentives Conferences & Exhibitions): Crowns of British monarchs from Henry VIII to Queen Elizabeth II, for instance, have contained at least one shining Bahraini pearl, while the Emperor of Japan, where cultured pearls are more commonplace, boasts a Bahraini pearl in his crown’.