BAHRAIN STORIES -Arabic Coffee

Bahrain.The summer heat exceeds all majestic expectations of hell on earth with 90% humidity as cloudless skies hold center stage for the hazy sun. We haven’t had any rain since January or February and very little at that.

Yesterday the whole country had a power outage. It began at 8:30 a.m., electricity returning by early evening. People were advised to go home leaving blistering office buildings for the torture of homes with neither water nor air conditioning. Water in Bahrain comes mostly from desalination plants powered by electricity. There was chaos and confusion on the roads as thousands of people turned to their air conditioned cars, abandoning homes and work-places to seek some comfort as temperatures soared to 110 F and that's with very high humidity. Many took to the shores of the Persian Gulf to cool off while others just stayed home sweating it out.

The whole island was paralyzed for nearly 12 hours. No traffic signals, no gas, no restaurants, or malls –they were all shut down because no one here believes in backup generators, except for two supermarkets which were able to stay open till 4 p.m.  Apparently, the blackout was caused by an accidental, massive power surge from the Bahrain Aluminum plant into the national electrical grid.

 Aside from this twist of fate during our first week back in the Kingdom, we have realized that Arabic food is what we missed most while being away. Taking the time to test and discover the great wealth of Arabian gastronomy, one is on the way to heaven.  On a future post-card from Bahrain, I’ll share more on that topic. This time however, I’d like to chatter about the wonderfully aromatic Arabic Coffee traditionally made from the finest Ethiopian coffee beans with dashes of cardamom -- the way Bahrainis like it.  It takes a little getting used to, but it really tastes good especially with quality plump, sweet dates; the customary sign of an Arabian household welcome.

Hospitality in Arabian homes is renowned the world over, and the long-standing practice of serving visitors freshly-brewed coffee is a Muslim trademark of true greeting whether the visit’s purpose is a social or business one.

Coffee (gahwa) for a traditional Bahraini welcome encompasses a lengthy but simple method of preparation, neither instant coffee here nor a measure of coffee into a filter.

Coffee is brewed only a few cups at a time and generally to order, i.e. strong, medium and so strong depending on the drinker’s preference. Once coffee grounds settle on the pot’s bottom the brew is served and drunk hot accompanied by sweet dates or pastries. Orange blossom essence may be added for individual flavoring if desired, and some people prefer adding fresh cardamom seeds while the coffee is being prepared.

Preparing coffee includes a ceremonial long handled brass pot used only for coffee making.  These pots are frequent wedding gifts and are said to last a life-time. The pot is smallish, as it only holds 4 to 8 small servings, maybe 3 ounces each.  Arabian coffee is generally strong and thick.  Water and sugar are boiled in the pot for about 2 minutes, until clear; then ground coffee is added and thoroughly stirred in. Once this mixture boils and foams to the top, it is removed from the fire and allowed an important ten minute ‘development phase’ to allow grounds to reach the pot’s bottom. Sometimes a bit of cold water is added to settle the grounds to the bottom.  After flavoring with a few pods of cardamom or saffron threads, if desired, the dark brew is gently poured into the shining brass dallah, (coffee server) making sure the coffee grounds remain in the pot. Sugar quantities vary depending on the event. The sweeter the coffee the happier the event; coffee at weddings, births and birthdays is rich, afternoon or after dinner coffees are modestly sweetened.  Coffee is served bitter at funerals.

As is the case with other enjoyable occasions, sharing and drinking coffee with friends, relatives or business associates, is a ceremony.  The hosts personally fill and pass the small cups to their guests, the coffee tray sometimes held by an assisting maid.  When men are hosting other men, the eldest one is served first; the same rule being observed for women’s gatherings.

A novice Arabic coffee drinker may be surprised at the thickness and strength of the beverage, so a few sips may be more than adequate. This is the case where taste is definitely acquired.   

Arabian connoisseurs are adamant about roasting coffee beans over a charcoal fire and then having them ground in a stone mortar -- immediately before the coffee is actually brewed -- claiming that in this manner pure coffee flavor is preserved.

Many people love their coffee very black, thick and with sediments in the bottom.

Coffeehouses are very popular in this country. Most of them are inside shopping centers but many others are individual establishments scattered all over the island.  People (mostly men) love to sit and smoke shisha with their friends to discuss world affairs as they watch the world go by.  However, that’s another story!