Sunday, June 4, 2017

MEMORIES of MY CHILDHOOD

When we were mere children, my cousin Cristina and I used to spend summer days at our grandparents' bizarre and quirky house on Ramon Anador street, a lush neighborhood enclave only thirty minutes from my own parents’ home. Each day we'd rummage through my grandfather Sebastian’s luxurious garden finding honey suckle and trumpet flowers to draw in their sweetness; we'd hide in the cool and enormous oleander bushes and pretend we were in a dense green forest where witches and fairies made their homes. At other times we'd play ‘house’ with our dolls and shared our grass salads which we’d dressed with lemon juice from the sweet and bountiful Meyer lemon tree, we'd also ‘borrow’ a pinch of salt from our abuela (grandma) for a more flavorful dish. By the noon hour we were ravenous so we'd pick up our dolls and the little China plates and bowls to meet our grandparents in the dining room (after washing our red, sweaty hands and faces) for the mid-day meal. I enjoyed favorite foods from both my grandmas. Sophia's best dish was Shepherd’s Pie and the wonderful, flaky baked quince turnovers – a most treasured childhood memory... it was the first bite and its immediate warmth throughout my chest and the harmony that made me love them every time.
Such memories seem to never leave the scope of my consciousness, the comfort of a sweet turnover, the companionship of a special cousin, my abuela Sophia, rolling pin in hand, preparing the dough; the quirky multi-leveled house -with a patio abutted with an assortment of potted, opulent plants at its center- and a working aljibe (water well) in the farthest passage between the entrance steps and the patio.
The mid-size kitchen was my grandma Sophia’s sanctuary, it was sunny and organized unlike my mother’s.
I also have fond memories of all my mother’s siblings meeting for Sunday dinner at that funky old, large and red tiled dining room; a long table to accommodate about 14, the young ones sitting in the patio in summer, even in a soft drizzle (because that's what we loved) at a table made by our abuelo (grandpa) Sebastian, out of smooth wood planks. Our stools being cement blocks painted in different fun colors. My cousins and I (about six of us) patiently waiting Sophia’s home-made pasta, either spinach ravioli, gnocchi or tallarines (tagliatelle) with her most delicious meat sauce on top plus grated Parmesan which we had grated by hand earlier that day, taking turns -Cristina and I- because we were the oldest, knees on a stool, the grater heavy, helping to turn the block of cheese in our hands into perfectly grated shavings.

I was lucky to have learned early on that food is about so much more than nourishment -always bringing forth the memories of comfortable family bonding, and childhood innocence back to me every time I choose to. Now, with most of those people gone I know that all those recollections from the past bring me warmth and comfort- once again.

Monday, April 10, 2017

PASSOVER TRADITIONS


This year as I prepare for the Passover, I realize how important tradition is to me. Tradition cements the bond to my descendants but also crosses the bridge to those who have departed: my parents and grandparents. Tradition from now on is up to my sister and me, our children maybe, yes, maybe later once they feel the tug of their heritage.
Sis and I -as protectors of our family’s legacy, still enjoy the festival and preparing traditional dishes for our own families. 

On the eve of the holiday, my grandma Rizula used to make the best charoset (mixture of apples, honey, walnuts, sweet Kosher wine and spices) and just before sunset on Passover she would set a spoonful on the Seder Plate while the rest was placed by tablespoons onto fresh escarole leaves then rolled up into short fat packets … symbolizing the sorrow of slavery (bitter escarole) and the sweetness (charoset) of the Jews’ exodus from their servitude in Egypt. 
Her thumb-print cookies were an unforgettable dream for which my cousins and I had to wait the entire year!  I recently asked one of my Israeli cousins if she had the recipe but, alas, everyone knows Rizula saved recipes in her head and not in a recipe box in the pantry.
My grandma’s memory fills my heart with nostalgia … she was a weaver of rugs, spending long winter hours bent over her loom creating patterns with soft, multi colored or monochromatic silks and yarns.  What thoughts or memories played in her mind during those hours of solitude?
A great cook of traditional Sephardic cuisine; she was also a great source of wisdom, comfort and support to her six living progenies and all her grandchildren.
When I was a child, I used to watch her as she lit the Sabbath candles, her faith written on her face as my grandfather whispered the holy prayers attired in his kippah (yarmulke) and tālēt (tallit) (his much-worn prayer shawl).

Every Passover I review the packets of matzo in supermarkets’ tempting displays plus all the other necessary items ‘Koshered’ for the holiday. My grandmother’s cooking creations came from scratch…I could now buy prepared matzo-ball soup, or grape leaves in a tin if I wanted to!                                                                                                            
I like the tradition of preparing comforting food for the holidays, its symbolic meaning etched in my head through the nostalgic memories of my ancestors’ past. I can recreate the recipes I experienced during my childhood, the legendary boyicos, huevos haminados, borekas, fritadas and other wonderful soul-altering treats, a sumptuous array of Sephardic fare constructed and influenced through the centuries by intricate historic circumstances, persecution, dietary laws, legacy and religious displacement.
Remembrance brings the galloping power of memories spreading tradition into our cultural views and celebratory ways … because when my grandma rolled the escarole leaves with the charoset filling on Passover Eve, and lovingly placed the last biscuit with plumb jam in its center on the buttered cookie sheet, she was also placing commitment and affection along with pride and family ritual, she was recasting her own mother’s and grandmothers’ roles in the act of preparing and serving food for her family.

Our Seder this year will be small, our parents and grandparents have already passed on; our children, living in different parts of the country won’t be around either so it'll be just a couple of friends,  my hubby and me -plus the memories of numerous Passovers past.  I will set the Seder plate, belonging to my grandmother, just about the same way she did throughout my childhood: the bitter herbs in the left corner, the tiny bowl of salt water -- symbolic of tears -- just to the other side, the hard-boiled egg (fertility and life), the charoset, the matzo, the lamb shank … lighting the candles at sunset, I'll recite a short prayer feeling the incredible warmth of ancestors past vying for space round the table -right by my side. ESW