If I have not
mentioned it before, we have traveled the world with our jobs, and I, my
children now grown, am finding myself discovering lots of new things which have
fueled my long-time passion for writing and narrative about life and adventure in
the places we reside and visit. Our cookie-cutter lives left behind, we have managed to follow our dreams visiting and working in lands we never even considered before.
After Uruguay
and Argentina the past two years, I am dedicating my free time to experience Sao
Paulo, Brazil.
The largest nation in South America, Brazil borders almost every
country in this continent, with the exception of Chile and Ecuador.
After independence from Portugal in the first part of the 19th
century, Brazil kept the language, and constitution of its motherland.
Africans -from Portugal’s vast slave trade- provided most of the work
force in the colonial economy, sugar and coffee, being undoubtedly, the chief
Brazilian commodities in the early 1800’s.
When gold and diamond deposits were unearthed in the state of Minas
Gerais, mining slaves -- who mined in deplorable conditions -- activated one the largest slave revolts in history, an event that eventually,
led to the abolition of the African slave operation albeit slavery persisted
until the late 1800’s. Once it finally ended, five
million ex-slaves remained in this new land alongside a large population of
locally born Portuguese.
The mega city of Sao Paulo, in Brazil’s southeast, is home to about 11
million happy souls. Springing up on a plateau in the Brazilian
Highlands, not far from the Atlantic Ocean, it is the third largest city in the
world. Like most extensive metropolitan areas, Sao Paulo can be astounding. While
at first glance the city seems impersonal, it is evident to me, that this urban
jungle, has a personality all its own. Sao Paulo is a city of contrasts. It
fluctuates from exceedingly wealthy central and suburban areas, to extreme
poverty in satellite districts crowded with slums, called favelas.
Our area of town is relatively safe and an affluent
district providing us with excellent
transportation and a subway stop only three blocks uphill from our flat.
Although canyons of up-thrusting buildings tower above the commercial
sections, our sector is composed
of mostly nice family homes, and luscious semi-tropical gardens and parks. Ubiquitous here are the giant eucalyptus trees, multi hued bougainvilleas and the sumptuous gardenia bushes that I love.
Sao
Paulo’s residents make up an colorful ethnic quilt pieced
together from distinctively large migrations of European, African, Asian, and
Arab extractions. After years of intense immigration, Brazil has the second
largest number of immigrants after the United States.
As I learn more about Sao Paulo and how it works for an insider, I realize this is a city that lives 24/7. From its symphony orchestras to its first class ballet; opera; drama and musical theater; museums and fairs to restaurants, coffee shops (!) and bars of all kinds. Sao Paulo keeps a pace that is faster than any other place I've been to -with the exception of Thailand- there's a strong, clear energy here and people seem to be happy, taking the time to enjoy a morning or afternoon coffee with friends; continental culture, as in Uruguay and Argentina, residing here as well.
I've noticed that Paulistas (people from SP) are always on the move. Always busy. Even taking private lessons (music, languages, finances) on weekends and/or after work. They are also friendly and will step up to help if needed. What I love mostly, is the eclectic feel of a diverse population living in the present.
If one already speaks Spanish, Portuguese becomes much easier to learn. People have been very helpful when I've needed to ask for something such as a subway ticket or a chip for my cell phone. Sign language also works well.
So far I've walked a whole lot in this city, especially not too far from our apartment, which is centrally located, of note is the very long and wide Paulista Avenue which is open to pedestrians on Sundays with no disturbance from hectic traffic. People are free to walk, ride their bikes while others jog along. The avenue shines with performers of all kinds -from jugglers and fire-swallowing folks to classical violinists and small samba troups- transforming the place into a dazzling and vibrant whole day trek. Of course cafes, restaurants and colorful street vendors abound for the classic cafezinho, pao de queijo and more. I've just been told Avenida Paulista developed over many years, built in the beginning as a thoroughfare to transport the coffee barons who made their homes in the area; those enduring mansions are still beautifully and respectably standing. The MASP (Museum of Art of Sao Paulo) also borders Paulista Avenue with a display of sculptures in its indoor courtyard, seen from the street.
The Old Downtown is also a fun place to walk in as many of the buildings are colonial. The very large Andrade Library is there welcoming locals and tourists alike; there's a monastery and Church, the enormous Se Cathedral, the University of Sao Paulo's Law School (the oldest faculty in Brazil), and the Stock Exchange, the 4th largest market cap in all of the Americas and 13th largest in the world.
Street art is celebrated if it's in good taste -it's not gang related art- but an expression of artists trying to beautify the city in different ways and involving young artists from shelters and poorer areas in a quest to empower them with the tools of a future profession.
Sao Paulo is fascinating. Next week I'll write a bit about the street feiras (Farmers' markets) that spring up in different parts of this enormous town.
