BRAZIL Post Cards from Down South: Downtown Sao Paulo and the Central Market

Strolling the ‘old downtown’ (Centro Velho) area of Sao Paulo, I note a combination of history, great architecture and traditional businesses (the Sao Paulo Stock Exchange is located here). The downtown area had been overlooked and in disrepair for a long time; recent renovations however, have attempted to bring color and a continental feeling to this district.

Restored old buildings, attractive coffee bars, art exhibits and improved shopping centers have found new life amid high-rise buildings. I spot a variety of people ambling the streets: tourists, young people on their cell phones, business executives, students, and a mixture of transient, vagabond types.

The impressive stained-glassed Metropolitan Cathedral that dominates this area, the Catedral da Sé, was completed after 40 years of intermittent construction. Fashioned along strict gothic lines, its large underground catacombs contain bishops’ graves and a selection of marble sculptures.  Inside, an Italian organ with more than 12 thou­sand pipes and five keyboards delights visitors and parishioners during mass services.  

A few blocks away, the architectural complex of the Patio do Colegio or College Square, marks the site of Sao Paulo’s origins in the mid 1500’s, the nucleus from which the town grew exponentially.  On the premises, the reconstructed colonial school and chapel that formed the first Jesuit mission in Sao Paulo, endows the historic square together with the Anchieta Museum, which displays original sculptures plus a large facsimile of the 16th Century Sao Paulo Township. 

A strong, aromatic cafezinho and a pao de queijo (Brazilian espresso coffee and a flaky cheese bread ball) at the Café do Pateo were worth my unplanned half hour stop.

Nearby, the Edificio Italia’s 47th floor rooftop, at a height of approximately 500ft, offers magnificent views of even higher skyscrapers. The building houses the symbol of Sao Paulo’s economic power, the Federal Bank of Brazil.

Going around the city on the subway system (Metro), which is the most secure, cleanest way to get around Sao Paulo, I have seen art exhibits in many of the stations; some seem permanent, but I think others change weekly. Some of them are within the stations’ fare metered gates, while others are outside and may be appreciated by all. Either way, it is interesting to observe different art forms underground.

My next stop downtown is the nearby, three acre, Mercado Municipal.  A chic, neo-classic structure sheltering over 300 stalls of daily fresh produce, prepared foods, dry goods and restaurants. The market is very clean and displays 40 feet-high domed and columned ceilings along with stained glass windows displaying  agricultural and urban scenes.

With restoration nearly finished, the market is the perfect place to sample local foods such as cold-cuts hero sandwiches and cod and prawn pies in puff pastry. This is a fun place to browse, taste, smell and touch.  Pizza is also much loved here from single slices to whole, 20 inch pies. 

The Mercado provides a visual and gastronomical experience to experience Brazil at its best. One can sample unique fruits from other Brazilian states as well as enjoy great sandwiches of cuts such as Mortadela and different kinds of salamis -which I used to love in Italy.

I prefer the cheese, delicatessen and wine areas, but the spice alley is also superb. I am happy I visited on a Wednesday as weekends can be quite congested.

The market‘s mezzanine floor is reserved for choice eateries and from its balcony, the crowds below are fun to watch.

I must remember to bring my husband along, next time.