MY SOUTH AFRICA - FIRST IMPRESSIONS

If human and social integrity had been nonexistent, South Africa would have been paradise for the local White minority – and for far too many of them, it was -- throughout the days of the Apartheid regime (“separateness” in Afrikaans) we encountered when we arrived in the country.
From the beginning we loved the luxurious chalets and bungalows, perfect climate -very similar to Southern California- and immaculate gardens. When we moved to the house where we ended up living from 1989 to1992, we marveled at the extensive, perfectly manicured gardens.
In the following days, we noticed the gardener in charge of our grounds silently entering and departing through a side iron door annexed to the main electronic entrance gates; gates that guarded the view of our house from the street. Simon, as I came to know later, tended the perfumed splendor of the gardenias, bougainvillea, birds of paradise and exuberant calla lilies. He also mowed the front and back lawns, approximately some 20 by 25 yards. Anything I asked him to cut or do he would reply "Yes, Madam!" And even though I asked him countless times to call me by my first name, he never did. I was always Madam. Ingrained habits die hard. It was also difficult to explain that we did not support 'Apartheid'. Those people who worked for us -and for other American Embassy employees based in South Africa- eventually understood that we had different policies.
Back in Washington we had read all about the appalling regime, but once in Pretoria we soon began to understand the nightmare and agony of the oppressed majority.  We had a glimpse of their present situation knowing that South Africa had a long history of racial segregation way before the Apartheid system took hold.  After several weeks in the country, we understood the dark mechanisms of racial segregation. The laws concerning employment, housing, and education kept the native Black population marginalized through gigantic socio-economic and political inequality. Blacks were not allowed to participate in government.  White Afrikaners -- those descendants of the 17th century Dutch pioneers who ventured to this land with the Dutch East India Company -- and the smaller British migration, maintained autonomy by segregating the illiterate majority.

In 1990, in-coming president De Clerk abolished Apartheid (with minimal violence and rioting in the streets) and released Nelson Mandela from prison; the rest is history, as people say.  During our years in South Africa we learned about the reaches and discrepancies of racism. We worked hard to upgrade schools and materials in creative ways and supported students to seek scholarships overseas.


Almost from the beginning of our time in Pretoria, I worked as a Foreign Student Advisor at the embassy. I only worked about 20 hours per week, but thoroughly enjoyed my job.  Some brilliant Black students passed through my office brightly securing full or part scholarships at US universities.

Towards the end of our time there, well into our impending departure, a terrible sadness gripped  my heart as I realized that my students, my friends and my South African life would soon be part of my past. I feared for the all children I'd leave behind. I hoped that the progress and momentum gained in all aspects would remain strong after our departure.
I will always remember the colors and textures of that beautiful land, the kindness of the people, their gentle demeanor, the winter aroma of burning firewood...esw