I
know that in bygone days the Uzbek bazaars were not only prosperous centers for
trade along the Silk Road, but also places where official town criers and court
announcers paced the streets bringing public decrees from governors and rulers.
These prosperous market places provided sheltered security for commercial
dealings as well as a heaven for lovers of water-pipe smoking and
for lovers of tea. The latter being served in the many successful chaikhanas
spread out throughout the bazaar. Fairs and
celebrations were also held in these markets; felons were publicly judged and punished or
pardoned accordingly -within the squared area directly in front of the bazaar.
Today
the chaikhanas remain, and the produce farmers have moved in along with the
dairy farmers, butchers, bakers and grocers; the nut producers and the
herbalists; the antique dealers and such. They’ve all set up shop within the
arcaded confines of the Uzbek bazaars.
Uzbekistan
is a legendary country and to me as far from the familiar as one can get -a
rare gem, arresting and enigmatic. Life here is old and deeply rooted in
tradition. I see it in the head gear people wear on the streets, the colorful
robes that cloak men on their way to the mosque…the striking, Uzbek produced,
vibrant silks.
The
Chorsu Bazaar seems mostly Uzbek while at Alayski I saw more Russians. Chorsu
appears mono ethnic in comparison and more colorful in dress and sound levels,
if that is possible. In Persian, Chorsu means Crossroads.
Life
looks to be in full swing as we arrive early on a Wednesday morning; the Chorsu
metro stop has an exit conveniently located within one of the busy streets of
the bazaar. It is so crowded, it’s a bit daunting; I strap my shoulder bag
around my head and under my arm tightly. Nobody ever said there are pickpockets
here, but I guess, it’s instinctive for me. This market seems much larger than
Alayiski, maybe there's a greater variety of goods; clothes, shoes, traditional costumes and
lots of Chinese-made clothing. Literally,
there are hundreds
of mini stalls along the alleyways and much more stuff on the ground, occupying
sidewalks in the open.
There’s
a lot of bargaining going on and it’s quite interesting to watch, and it’s done
with a smile.
Originally an open air market place, Through centuries Chorsu had alleyways covered with
merchandise from all parts of the Silk Road. By the 1950’s all that confusion
was moved away to make room for the blue and turquoise mosaic domed buildings designed by master Soviet architects to give the
area a more ordered less ethnic look during the U.S.S.R. period. Business is now
partly conducted under the shadow of those most impressive blue domes but
somehow, after the breakup of the Soviet Union and Uzbekistan's independence, the market is again brimming beyond its boundaries as it may have
been during its periods of trade when the Silk Road camel caravans stopped
over in Tashkent, their goods spilling from wool and goat hair kilim
bags.
This
bazaar contains bakery shops with baking tandor ovens in plain view -an bread-making education in
itself. There are also some butchers selling horse meat -a true delicacy in
this part of the world- slightly sweet, tender and low in fat, I am told.
Housed
under another beautiful blue dome at Chorsu, are the carpet and souvenir shops, some
restaurants, chaikhanas and all kinds of imaginable household plastic ware.
I can say that I liked both bazaars equally: Alayski is closer to my house and we can drive there on weekends for the weeks produce. Chorsu has a more Asian like -sophisticated beat to it and is a nice place to bring guests who visit the area and maybe for a yearly jaunt to look at carpets.
I'm definitely taken by these age-old market places.
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