VIGNETTES FROM CENTRAL ASIA: First few weeks in Uzbekistan

As days creep on, our personal belongings begin to arrive in Uzbekistan; our bigger house is ready and a new routine is setting in with our books and familiar belongings.

After a little time organizing the house I’m more attuned to accepting this new culture that surrounds me; I begin to feel life in Central Asia as my own as I look forward to my youngest children arriving for the holidays.

Making friends has made all the difference in my world and daring to drive in this new country gives me independence to explore on my own or with others even though international driving rules are neither enforced nor observed.

My rule here is: get in the car and pray -be aware of every car on the road and what it may do. A stop sign may not mean people will actually stop –however, they do stop for red traffic lights - really, it’s not bad once I get a handle on it. If one knows what to expect, all’s fine. It just takes a bit of practice.

I’m learning much in my first few weeks in Uzbekistan by using Tashkent's wonderful Rapid Transit System, a truly remarkable underground museum where people can appreciate the intricate tilework on the arched walls showcasing beautiful art-deco lighting fixtures.

Structurally sound and ingenious, each metro station is an original work of art reflecting its given name and designed by prominent Uzbek architects and artists. It is saner than driving if there’s a nearby stop wherever one’s going.

My first two outings with new friends on the metro were to the Alayski and the Chorsu bazaars because they told me I needed a traditional oriental experience. I said I’d been to Alayski already but hadn’t seen all of it. Anyway, both markets are ages old, diverse and super crowded.

These two bazaars are the most unique so I wanted to learn about them first (there are also other big ones and many small neighborhood ones). Ancient bazaars are the best place to experience Central Asian culture; its sounds, smells and life in general.

In spite of the stares we received from several Uzbek boys, I need to take a minute to place my mind on what Cathie is telling me -the fact that Alaisky is one of the oldest in Tashkent-  budding around the 13^th century (!) as a place of trade along the Silk Route. The actual market developed naturally as farmers began to bring their produce in the spring and summer months. It became very popular among the locals from the old town and also the regional areas created during Russia's colonial period and later among the USSR’s mock geographical divisions of Tashkent. It’s been standing here as a true bazaar for 150 years.

The area is partly covered under tiled pavilions and partly in the open; the day is pleasantly warm with deep blue skies and radiant sunshine; the market is brimming with herbs, fruit and melons of all kinds, grapes, pomegranates as well as vegetables, spices, dried fruits and a variety of nuts. Trying to communicate over the vendors’ loud voices is impossible, so we march on looking at this and that.

We also made our way upstairs –it’s a large area- where there are souvenirs, colorful fabrics and the dairy part of the bazaar where there’s honey in bats, milk and cream, sour cream and many varieties of cheese –all unpasteurized, however. Cathie tells me that if the milk is used within two days it’s fine. Or sour cream if you plan to use it in tonight’s dinner. There are no packaged dairy products except for butter and that’s in the bigger supermarkets with many empty shelfs. Most dairy items are frozen because they come from other countries, generally for the convenience of expatriates who can afford to buy them.

 Continues...Chorsu bazaar in the next blog.